The Sun and Your Skin

Despite all warnings to the contrary, come summer the beaches are packed as we bare our bodies to get a tan. While a small amount of early-morning sun is good for you (15 minutes is sufficient to provide you with natural vitamin D, and occasional exposure is believed to improve psychological wellbeing), too much sun is dangerous. Besides the fact that sun dramatically ages your skin, it is also the cause of several kinds of skin cancer, including solar keratoses (wart-like growths) and malignant melanoma -and just one bout of harsh sunburn might be all it takes. Photo aging -which can make up to around 85% of the overall appearance of aging is a slow process and only becomes visible after a few decades. And then it’s too late do anything about it.

Unfortunately, although people are now waking up to the dangers of overexposure and the horrors of skin cancer, only about half of the world’s population takes adequate precautions to protect themselves from the sun. Sun safety should be a vital part of your life and one that you must instill in your children from early age.

The sun and your skin
Your best bet against premature aging is the daily use of a good sunscreen. The higher the SPF (Sun Protection Factor), the oilier the cream generally is. So if you’re prone to breakouts stick to SPF 15 or lower or try a gel formula.

Photo aging, a result of sun exposure, is a slow process. It may take several decades before it becomes fully noticeable. In fact, 90% of sun damage occurs by the age of 20, yet only becoming visible in your early thirties and onwards. The degree of photo aging is mainly determined by your skin type and total lifetime sun exposure, and the degree of damage to different areas of the body is directly proportional to the amount of sunlight received (your hands and neckline for example, are more likely to have sun damage and age spots than your stomach). Seriously sun-damaged skin has a thickened outer layer, making it feel dry, rough and leathery. There are often darkly pigmented areas or whitish spots where levels of pigment are higher or lower than normal. Pores may be dilated and small blood vessels become more obvious, sometimes forming broken or spider-like veins, and the skin may be mottled red or inflamed. Within the dermis, the elastic fibres increase in quantity and thickness, manifesting as deep, fixed wrinkles and less pliable skin.

THE SCIENCE OF SUNBURN
The sun energy that reaches the Earth can be divided into three kinds of light: infrared and visible light, and ultraviolet radiation (UVR). UVR, in turn, consists of three different wavelengths: ultraviolet A, Band C.

• Ultraviolet C is the shortest wavelength and potentially the most damaging. DNA and proteins absorb UVC due to their molecular structure. Fortunately for us, UVC is mostly absorbed in the atmosphere by the ozone layer. However, the current ‘thinning’ of this layer has increased the amounts that reach our planet, especially in the Southern Hemisphere.

• UVB is the most potent wavelength as it can penetrate into the epidermis where it affects the DNA and can create lipid peroxides, precursors of free radicals. It is believed to generate most of the photo damage to skin. UVB is the wavelength responsible for sunburn, and is at its most dangerous in the middle of a summer day, when transmitted through a blue sky. Less UVB is transmitted in the early mornings and late evenings; when the sun is lowest in the sky.

• UVA is about 1 000 times less damaging to the skin than UVB, but it is far from harmless. UVA rays are longer than UVB rays, and 90% of the sunlight reaching the earth is made up of UVA rays. They are the ‘aging’ rays, which penetrate deeper into the skin (the dermis) and are responsible for the damage to your collagen and elastin, and causing freckles, blotchiness and pigmentation problems. While UVB peaks at high noon in summer, UVA is fairly constant throughout the day and year and can penetrate cloud cover, tinted glass and clothing relatively easily. UVA also causes immune suppression, resulting in increased susceptibility to skin infections and even skin cancer.

Overexposure to the sun at an early age will result in premature wrinkling between the ages of 25 and 40. The dangerous rays are not just from the sun’s light -they are also reflected off water and the earth.

SUNBURN VS SUNTAN
There is no such thing as a safe tan. A suntan is actually the body’s defence mechanism against too strong sunlight and the visible evidence of damage to the skin. Sunlight stimulates the skin to increase melanin production. As the melanin supply is activated, it moves up towards the surface of the skin where it helps prevent burning and reduces the penetration of the sun’s rays. The side effect is skin of that golden colour that sun worshippers crave. Although dark-skinned people have more melanin in their skin and thus have a higher level of natural protection, they still need to use a sunscreen to avoid skin damage.

Sunburn, on the other hand, can be equated to ‘cooking’ your skin. If you don’t apply sunscreen, or accidentally fall asleep in the sun, the surface blood vessels dilate (hence the redness), and an inflammatory response is induced to fight the damage, often causing blisters in the process. The redness occurs two to eight hours after severe sun exposure and blistering can occur after 12 to 24 hours. A frightening fact is that our skin ‘remembers’ this burn, and the DNA may not repair perfectly. These ‘errors’ in DNA can lead to skin cancer years later. So when you make your way to the coast for your next summer holiday, remember that although a tan fades quickly, your skin carries a permanent memory of the damage.

PROTECTING YOUR SKIN
The time it takes for unprotected skin to turn red in the sun is known as the MED (minimal erythema dose). Your skin type determines your MED. Very fair skin, for example, will have a MED of about six minutes; olivetoned skin can tolerate about 10 to 12 minutes; and black skin usually has a MED of 18 to 20 minutes. SPF (Sun Protection Factor) is a standardized measure that indicates how much additional time above your MED you can spend in the sun without getting burned. For example, if you can usually spend 10 minutes in the sun before burning, an SPF15 sunscreen will multiply that time by fifteen (10 minutes x 15 = 150 minutes of ’sun time’). Note that a person with fair skin can spend far less time in the sun than someone with darker skin, even if they both apply the same level of SPF. Once your time is up, you should ideally get out of the sun. Reapplying sunscreen only means that you will ‘cook’ more slowly, a bit like cooking your Sunday roast in the oven -once it’s done you’re simply crisping it! You should, however, always reapply sunscreen after swimming, perspiring and drying yourself off. The key is to use enough sunscreen (one to two ounces) for an even and full coverage. Double application is also important: apply the first layer 20 to 30 minutes before you go to the beach, and apply another layer as your ‘coat of armour’ when you get into the sun.

Sun worshipping is the single most destructive activity for your skin, with over 90% of all visible sings of ageing a result of sun exposure.

No tanning product can guarantee to tan your skin a certain colour depth of a tan is determined by the skin’s ability to produce melanin. The key to ’safe’ tanning is to use a product that allows production of pigment to take place slowly by screening out most of the sun’s harmful UV rays.

The rule for choosing a sunscreen: use a moderate filter on your body and high protection for your face.

PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL SUNSCREENS
Sunscreen formulations rely on phys ical or chemical agents to provide protection. Physical sunscreens contain inert mineral particles that reflect or block UV rays. (Think of the white zinc dioxide layer that the cricketers use.) The molecules cannot break down or be absorbed by the skin and are therefore less likely to irritate the skin. This type of sunscreen is generally better for sensitive skin types. Physical sunscreens of the past tended to be thick, white and greasy, but modern preparations contain ultrafine titanium dioxide crystals that don’t leave that white residue and actually help to absorb oil. Chemical sunscreens, on the other hand, contain synthetic chemical substances that absorb UV radiation. Some of the ingredients can be absorbed through the skin, so these sunscreens may cause irritation. PABA (para aminobenzoic acid) is one of the most common sensitivity triggers in chemical sunscreens. When choosing a sunscreen, look for ingredients like titanium dioxide or Parsol 1789 (also known as avobenzone; the most effective ingredien for absorbing UVA) and do a patch test to check for sensitivity. Make sure any product you choose offers UVA and UVB protection. It’s also essential that your sunscreen contains antioxidants such as vitamin E, flavonoids and ascorbic acid to neutralize free radical damage and trigger the repair process. Always choose a product that suits your skin type. For example, gel is best for oily skin, and creams and lotions are most suitable for dry skin.

FAUX GLOWS
What we’re hearing from dermatologists is that the only safe tan is that comes in a tube. The good news is that this is the golden age bottled tans; the modern formulas can give a natural looking glow without the orange streaks and bad smells of past formulations. Self tans use DHA (dihydroxyacetone), colourless sugar that reacts with dead skin cells to create a tanned effect. The reaction is not immediate; it usually takes three to four hours for the colour to develop fully. As your skin constantly renews itself, fake tans only last five to seven days. It’s very important to remember that fake tans do not provide any sun protection, so you still need to wear a sunscreen.

Primary damage is done your skin while you’re in the sun. However, there is a secondery burst of free radical damage for another 24 hours after exposure. To counter this damage, you must get enough antioxidants and make repair part of your skincare routine.

WHAT ABOUT SUNBEDS?
If you are at all concerned about your skin, you should never lie on a sunbed. The ultraviolet light used by indoor tanning systems is as dangerous as that of the sun and although they usually filter out the burning UVB rays, they let the UVA rays in even deeper. Sunbeds are, in essence, automatic aging machines and increase your risk of melanoma.

If you do burn in the sun, you can partially alleviate the unpleasant sting by applying cool compresses or adding oatmeal to a lukewarm bath. Creams containing menthol can be very soothing too.

Should I wear a daily sunscreen?
Yes! Eighty percent of all sun exposure is incidental -in other words, walking, driving to work (the side of your face closest to the window will exhibit more signs of premature ageing), or taking a break outdoors. In fact, sitting outside at noon for your lunch hour is worse than being on the beach between 9-11 :00 or 14:00-17:00. For this reason, it is generally accepted that everyone should be using some sort of daily sun protection. This is especially important if you are at risk for skin cancer or are on antibiotics, antimalarials, Retin-A, Roaccutane, antidepressants, or some hormone replacement therapies, as they can all increase photosensitivity. So, even when it’s overcast, be sure to apply a sunscreen every morning. If you have sensitive skin, rather use a lower SPF and be careful to avoid the sun.

WHY VITAMIN A IS SO VITAL

Vitamin A supports the natural health of the skin. Melanocytes, keratino cytes, fibroblasts and Langerhans cells all depend on vitamin A, and a defiis ciency will also result in a depletion of vitamin C. Although vitamin A protects the skin from the sun, UVA destroys it. If you spend the weekend tanning next to the swimming pool, for example, the levels of vitamin A in your skin will be depleted and it will take about seven days to restore those levels. Ten minutes in the sun will cause the vitamin A level in the skin to drop to about 40%, while 30 minutes of sun exposure will take the level down to about 10%. To mainbecause tain a high enough level of vitamin A in the skin to protect it, it’s essential to apply vitamin A topically, and to supply the skin with antioxidants that protect your vitamin stores from attack by free radicals.

There’s no doubt that sunshine makes us feel good. It is essential, however, to learn how to enjoy it without putting your skin at risk.

AND NOW FOR THE GOOD NEWS…

Although for many people the rate of damage is higher than the skin’s inherent ability to repair itself, there is a lot of potential for self-repair. The key is to start taking the proper precautions now, if you haven’t being doing so already. Always protect yourself from the sun. By simply applying a daily sunscreen, you are giving your skin a chance to ‘rest’ and conserve some of the energy it would otherwise expend on protection during the day. As these energy reserves grow, your skin has a better chance of carrying out the crucial roles of repairing and rebuilding itself; ensuring long term healthy functioning.

How do I know if I am at risk for skin cancer?

Every person runs some risk of developing skin cancer; a lighter skin tone and unprotected sun exposure increase that risk. It is crucial to protect young skin because a severe burn before the age of 18 almost doubles the risk of skin cancer and premature ageing. After years of sun exposure basal cell carcinoma and squamous cell carcinoma are the most common types of skin cancer and often appear on exposed areas of the skin. Melanomas are the most widely known type of skin cancer and the deadliest. Remember the warning signs for changes in a mole, which may indicate melanoma: A is for asymmetry: has its shape changed? B is for border: have the edges increased or become irregular? C is for colour: has the mole darkened or is the colour not uniform? D is for diameter: has it become larger than 6mm (Y.in)? Speak to a dermatologist immediately if you answer yes to any of the above questions, or if you are concerned by any suddenly appearing skin lesion. Early detection can make all the differ ence between successful removal and long-term illness.

• Get Youthful Skin In Four Easy Steps
  Your skin care regimen can be broken down into three or four steps: cleansing, exfoliation, moisturizing, and sun protection. This may be a no-brainer for...
• Tan Your Hide The Right Way!
  Summer is still a long way away, but for those who live for the beach, getting a gorgeous sun tan cuts across seasons, especially if...
• The Real Score With Anti-aging Creams
  Among the many concerns which haunt women is that inevitable wrinkle on the skin, particularly on the face. They may be laugh lines or crows...
• Vitamins and Your Skin
  Nutrition seems to play an enormous role in minimizing free radical damage. Studies show that after the age of 30, there is a sharp decrease...
• Lavish Your Skin With the Beautiful Glow Of Health
  Even though the cosmetic industry has caught on in the ‘all-natural, organic’ fever, there are still a few labels which choose to go with the...