Most of us are born with perfect skin. While a lucky few manage to maintain a clear complexion over the years, most of the rest have experienced a few unwanted changes. For some it may be small irritations such as breakouts, dark patches after a pregnancy or enlarged pores. For others, it may be a more severe skin condition, like eczema or acne. Everyone experiences marks and blemishes on their skin at some point. Some are permanent, others tend to come and go. Most will be of no importance, while some may require a professional opinion, While you can never regain the skin you were born with, there are many things you can do to improve your lot and treat a problem. The key is getting to know and understand your skin, so that you are able to identify what needs to be done. Make a habit of checking your skin regularly. If you tend to problem skin, be aware of your problem skin, be aware of your may well be the underlying cause. Also realize and accept that your skin is constantly changing and that you may need to adapt your skincare routine accordingly.
Histamines are chemicals in your body’s tissues.When released, they cause an allergic reaction, which is your body’s way of trying to expel a perceived invader.
All about acne
Age is not a sure guarantee against pimples or acne. In fact, many people only experience acne for the first time in their adult years; recent studies show that 40-50% of adults between the ages of 20–40 are diagnosed with low-grade persistent acne.
The exact cause of acne cannot be pinpointed. A number of factors seem to have an effect, including genetics, hormones, physiology, stress and the use of certain cosmetics. This type of acne ranges from a few isolated spots to severe breakouts, which can leave unsightly scars. Acne results when the sebaceous (oil) glands secrete too much sebum into the hair follicle, which is lined with dead cells. The combination of excess sebum and dead cells clog up the pores, which are the pipelines for the natural flow of oil to the skin’s surface. As a result bacteria build up, the area becomes inflamed, and spots or pimples may appear. Acne most commonly occurs where the sebaceous glands are most active -on the face, neck, chest and back. A variety of blemishes result: Whiteheads form when oil and dead cells accumulate and block the pores from opening onto the surface of the skin.
• Blackheads are similar to whiteheads, except the blocked material protrudes above the skin, dilating the pore. The black colour is due to the oxidization process that occurs within the follicle. If left alone, blackheads will simply stay in the skin. Remove them by gently steaming the area and then ‘easing’ the plug out.
• Papules are inflammations under the skin. When the sebum build-up becomes too much, the follicle expands and eventually bursts, releasing the sebum and dead cell build-up onto the surface of the skin. White blood cells then attack this material, forming pus, and a pustule results.
• Cysts occur when inflammation spreads deep into the skin. To contain it, the cells automatically form a fibrous capsule around it. Cysts can continue to grow slowly under the skin and usually need to be surgically removed.
• Scars result when damaged skin tries to heal itself. Naturally, scars can be severely aggravated by picking or squeezing.
FACT OR FICTION?
Chocolate and fatty foods cause acne. There is no scientific evidence to indicate that diet plays a determining role. The ‘westernized’ diet is high in preservatives, colourants and processed foods and supports the most acne-prone populations. The Asian and Mediterranean populations, however, generally eat more good fatty acids and far less processed foods. Although acne is less common in these areas, the role of genetic factors is unclear.
Acne is due to poor hygiene. The blackheads we see are a result of an oxidization process that turn the sebum and dead cells black in colour. It is not dirt. In fact, overcleansing can aggravate acne.
Sunlight improves acne. The sun can seem to improve the compleXion, but it also suppresses the immune system. That is why acne often seems to get worse a few weeks after sun exposure. The sun also stimulates sebum secretion. It is more adVisable to wear an oilfree sunscreen.
Don’t be tempted to remove skin impurities such as blackheads by harsh squeezing or without prepearing your skin first.
WHAT CAUSES ACNE?
Hormones
Throughout your life, hormones will playa very important role in determining the ups and downs of your skin. Oestrogen is an important skin regulator, and an excess of male hormones can cause acne. Men and women both produce male hormones (androgen and testosterone) and female hormones (oestrogen and progesterone) -only the ratio of these hormones differ between the sexes. When the levels of androgen increase -during puberty, ovulation, menstruation and childbirth, for example -the skin produces more oil and acne can result.
Diet
There is not enough evidence to suggest that acne and diet are related, but some people find that certain foods make their acne worse. Common culprits include chocolate, caffeine, nuts, high-fat and spicy foods, citrus fruits, refined foods, dairy products, and foods with a high iodide content, such as artichokes, seaweed, spinach and shellfish. Certain medications can also cause a flare-up.
Stress
Stress triggers the adrenal glands to release the hormone cortisol, which increases the secretion of sebum.
Stress inducers include skimping on sleep, skipping meals and ingesting too much caffeine. All these factors trigger the adrenaline in your body to mobilize stored nutrients, which in turn slows down natural exfoliation processes. The remedy? Get enough sleep, follow a balanced diet, drink plenty of water, and cut down on caffeine and high-fat foods. In severe cases or if there is no change, consult a skincare professional. Although more common in teenagers than any other age group, acne can occur at any time in life. The causes are still not completely understood.
Did you know?
Skin that is irritated by a cleanser or moisturizer reacts by forming a protective layer by adhering more skin cells onto the surface.
TREATING ACNE-PRONE SKIN
The best way to treat acne is by preventing new spots while treating existing ones. It can often be treated effectively with nonprescription, over-the-counter products.
• A regular purifying and cleansing routine will help remove excess sebum on the skin’s surface, a breeding ground for bacteria. Try using a daily gentle antibacterial wash to help cleanse bacteria from the skin, combined with a beta hydroxy acid such as salicylic acid, which stimulates the skin’s natural exfoliation process. As dead cells become ‘unstuck’, there is less chance of clogged pores. Salicylic acid also helps to curb an oily shine.
• Even oily skin needs daily moisture. If your skin is very oily, choose a lightweight lotion to replace moisture without adding oil. Make sure the product you buy is oil-free or noncomedogenic, which means it won’t block pores. If you wear make-up, look out for foundations that ‘mattify’ or control oil, as they will help eliminate shine.
• Remember that fingers dipped into shared products increase the risk of contamination. If possible, opt for products that are specially sealed or have pump dispensers.
• Benzoyl peroxide is a fast-zapping, nonprescription ingredient that is particularly effective at speeding up the drying up and peeling of spots. It is available in varying strengths and should be introduced at low concentrations as it can be very drying and may cause allergies.
• If your acne doesn’t respond to nonprescription remedies (give it at least six weeks), it’s best to go for a medical diagnosis with a dermatologist who can prescribe a stronger formulation. Antibiotics can be taken orally (erythromycin and tetracycline are commonly used) or applied topically. The two other proven acne treatments are Retin-A and Roaccutane. Retin-A is an imitation of retinoic acid, the naturally occurring form of vitamin A found in the skin. Its main action is keratolytic, which means it acts as a peeling agent that loosens dead surface cells. Retin-A is a very powerful drug that only needs to be applied to the acne areas in very small doses. The problem is that retinoic acid can be irritating and drying, and causes increased sensitivity to the sun and any other products applied to the skin. Retinoid isotretinoin (Roaccutane) is a synthetic version of vitamin A that’s taken orally once or twice a day for four months. It’s extremely effective, but the side effects include dryness and increased skin sensitivity. Very strict birth control needs to be practiced while taking Roaccutane as it can cause major birth defects.
Medication is reserved for more persistant cases of acne and should always be taken under supervision.
