Skin Care

GOOD GENES
You can choose your friends, but not your family -or your genes. Genes play an important part in your overall appearance and determine how your skin behaves and ages. Although you cannot do anything about the characteristics you inherit from your parents, you can use them as an ‘age barometer’ and take certain steps to arm yourself against problems that are likely to come your way.

REGULAR EXERCISE
There is no denying the benefits of exercise -it’s the easiest way to perk up a lacklustre complexion. During exercise the circulation is boosted and oxygen-rich blood is delivered to every cell in your body allowing nutrients to be absorbed quicker. The short-term effect is a glowing complexion. Long-term, many experts believe that exercise improves the skin’s elasticity and encourages new cell growth. Remember, however, that moderation is the key to good health. Professional sportspeople sometimes have a gaunt look due to a low body fat concentration. That is not necessarily a good thing as you get older, as it may mean you lose some of that youthful plumpness. Training outdoors also potentially means more sun exposure. Raw fruit and vegetables are one of the best sources of antioxidant vitamins, vital for good skin.

BALANCED DIET
Although some dermatologists don’t believe that what you eat has any effect on the state of your skin, it is acknowledged that your skin reflects the general health of your body. Clear, radiant skin is dependant on the efficient functioning of your kidneys, intestines and liver -the organs responsible for detoxification and waste removal. Excess alcohol, drugs and fatty foods can put strain on these organs, resulting in a sluggish system and pasty, blotchy skin, while smoking and high caffeine intake can compromise your body’s defence system. Regular crash dieting also plays havoc with your body and can add as much as 10 years to your face, while nutrient deficiencies will affect your complexion. A lack of protein, for example, can manifest in a dull, dry complexion; a shortage of vitamin C may result in dullness and easy bruising; lack of vitamin A can cause dry skin and a disruption in cellular turnover; a deficiency in iron can produce a pale complexion; and a vitamin B deficiency may lead to breakouts, pallor and cracks at the corners of the mouth.

ENOUGH SLEEP
Skincare experts now believe that skin cells regenerate as the body rests, repairing damage done during the day and producing new cells in preparation for the next. Studies have also shown that sleep-deprived people have lower levels of a growth hormone that influences specific skin-growth factors like collagen and keratin production. As far as most of us are concerned, there’s just no denying what a lack of sleep does to your eyes and complexion!

DEEP BREATHING
Your skin absorbs a small amount of oxygen through the pores and so needs to ‘breathe’. Try not putting anything onto your face for at least a small part of each day and always cleanse well to avoid blocked pores. Breathing properly through your lungs will also benefit your skin: breathing in supplies your skin with oxygen and breathing out removes carbon dioxide and waste. Many of us breathe incorrectly by taking shallow breaths into the top of the chest.

Try inhaling and exhaling slowly through the nose. Keep the shoulders relaxed and draw each breath right down into your stomach, holding it there to a count of four, before exhaling slowly, emptying out your lungs completely. Breathing is a great stress reliever: it has been shown to lower the pulse rate and its easy, rhythmic quality is comforting.

There is a definite shift towards harnessing the healing power of nature, and the production and consumption of organic and ‘natural’ skincare products is increasing. The question is: how natural is ‘natural’ and what exactly is the difference between natural and organic? If a product is truly organic it will be certified by an organic certification agency. The trouble is that it’s hard to produce 100% organic beauty products because preservatives are vital constituents, and natural preservatives are hard to find. Natural products are made from plants and minerals that occur in nature and have not been produced in a laboratory. Organic products are also made from natural ingredients; they are grown without the use of chemicals or pesticides. Seaweed, for example, can be classified as a natural product, but is not organic because it’s not grown in controlled conditions. Truly organic products do not contain any genetically modified ingredients nor petrochemicals (synthetic ingredients derived from natural petroleum or oil), nor do they undergo any animal testing (unless required by law) and are only subjected to minimal processing.

Some cosmetic companies add natural ingredients in the form of fruit acids, vitamins, borage and hemp to skincare products. Some products use ingredients that mimic the skin’s natural functions, like hyaluronic acid, a moisturizer that occurs naturally in the skin. So what is best? Some experts believe that 60% of everything you put on your skin is absorbed by it. Your skin is a highly effective delivery system, so it makes sense that organic beauty products made without the use of artificial fertilizers, pesticides, chemicals or drugs -ensure the highest level of nourishment to the skin. But remember that you can still have an allergic reaction to a ‘natural’ product. Natural ingredients can trigger skin reactions in the same way that synthetic ingredients can. If you have sensitive skin, look for products that have full ingredient listings to enable you to identify potential aggressors.

Seaweed has detoxifying proper ties -it stimulates circulation and encourages the elimination of wastes and water.

A SKIN FOR ALL SEASONS
Winter can be torture to your skin, so it’s no surprise that many recurrent skin problems are at their worst at this time of year. Dryness can diminish the epidermis’ ability to provide protection, leading to seasonal eczema, hypersensitivity and rough skin. With a little care, however, you can keep your skin looking its best come rain or shine. During dry weather, the key is more moisture, more often. If you use an oil-free moisturizer, consider upgrading to one that contains small amounts of essential oils for a moisture boost, or switch from your summer moisturizer to a richer cream.

Depending on the humidity levels, you may also want to apply a weekly hydrating mask to help restore suppleness to the skin. Putting a humidifier in your home and office will also help prevent dehydration, which is especially important if you are constantly exposed to air-conditioners and heaters.

INGREDIENT WATCH Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or fruit acids, are derived from natural ingredients such as milk, olives, apples and grapes. They help speed up the exfoliation process by dissolving the glue that bonds the cells. When choosing an AHA, it’s important to consider the form and concentration. Lactic acid (made from fermented milk) and glycolic acid (made from sugar cane), for example, are particularly effective in treating dry skin and dry-skin diseases such as eczema and psoriasis, as well as decreasing wrinkles. Regarding the concentration: the higher it is, the more effective is the product. However, AHAs should be used with caution. They can cause irritation and do increase the skin’s sensitivity to the sun. If you use AHAs, you need to use a daily sunscreen with SPF15 or higher.

Antioxidants are part of the body’s natural defence system, derived from vitamins A, ( and E. They protect the skin by attaching themselves to free radicals and neutralizing them. Since your skin is your first line of defence against the outside world it makes sense to arm it with the most potent antioxidants available. Other good antioxidants include grape seed extract, black and green tea extract and Iycopene (extracted from tomatoes, red guava, watermelon and the skin of red grapes). Polyphenols or catechins, which are found in green tea, exhibit powerful antioxidant properties. In fact, they are 20 times stronger than vitamin E.

Did you know ?
Vitamin C applided topically to the skin protects it against free radicals for two to three days. And, since it does not wash off, it delivers extra long-lasting benefits.

Fruit or vegetable pulp can make a wonderful skin treatment. It contains stimulating enzymes that can make the skin look firmer and fresher.

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) work in much the same way as AHAs. The best known of the BHAs is salicylic acid, which is made from willow bark. BHAs appear to be less irritating than AHAs.

Coenzyme 010 occurs naturally in every skin cell and helps convert food into energy. Without (0-Q10 known as the ‘fuel of youth’ -the body’s cells are unable to produce energy. Stress, UV radiation and aging cause a drop in the natural levels of this coenzyme, while increased levels boost cell activity, regeneration and elasticity.

Enzymes like papain (from papaya) and bromelian (from pineapple) are botanically derived and naturally exfoliate and brighten the skin. Enzyme activators are also being designed to suppress the ‘bad’ enzymes -collagenase and elastase -that damage collagen and elastin.

Flavonoids belong to a group of organic plant molecules produced by plants to protect themselves from attack by diseases and insects as well as damage from intense UV light. Green tea is rich in flavonoid antioxidants. They’re also found in onions, apples and citrus fruits. They mop up free radicals, fight off viruses, calm inflammation protect against allergies.

Retinoids is a drive term for vitamin A. Powerful retinoids like retinoic acid are found in prescription-only products like Retin-A and Roaccutane and are used to treat sun damage and acne. Gentler derivatives like retinyl palmitate and retinol can be found in cosmetic creams.

Herb teas are excellent for health and beauty. Green tea, especially, is a superb source of antioxidants.

Your skin reflects your state of health. If you follow a healthy, balanced lifestyle, eat sensibly, keep stress in check and allow enough time to pamper yourself and recharge your batteries, you are less likely to suffer the skin diseases and disorders discussed in previous chapters. If, on the other hand, you subject your body to all the things we are told not to do (smoking, poor diet, lack of exercise and overload at work), the chances are you’re not going to look as good as you could after a few months. The warnings are unmistakable, but it is important to remain realistic about one’s lifestyle: there is only so much each of us can do to try and reduce stress levels; apart from recycling and trying to contribute as little as possible to pollution, there’s very little we can do about it, and it is not always easy to give our bodies exactly the fuel that they need. The key is to try to live as vibrantly as possible. Supplement to replace missing nutrients, take time out when you need it and have fun. It’s all about making an effort to live well, because that is your insurance for good health and great skin.

Relaxed breathing and elevated concentration levels will help you to lower your heart rate and blood pressure and increase your peace of mind.

The Stress Index
In chapter one we mentioned that stress can make skin behave badly. For some people it takes severe and prolonged stress to reach the breaking point, while for others it may only take smaller irritations like traffic jams, having to do a presentation, or lack there
of sleep to induce a physical or emotional outbreak. Short-term stress is beneficial in that it prepares the body for an emergency. However, in the long-term, your body, skin and health start to suffer. Unlike other hormones, them cortisol -the stress hormone –does not decrease with age. In a young, healthy body, cortisol levels increase in the morning and drop at night. If you are under prolonged stress, cortisol is continually secreted into the bloodstream. A younger person is more able to move from a stressed state to a relaxed one, whereas with age, this becomes more difficult. Problems arise when the body makes too much cortisol for too long. Effects include inflammation -a major con tributor to skin ageing, weakening of the immune system and increasing blood sugar levels.
Long-term stress also depresses DHEA, an important steroid hormone breakfor the skin. High cortisol and low DHEA levels are associated with rapid skin ageing. In order to protect the body from the effects of stress there emofore, you need to keep your cortisol levels in check. Doing the following can help:

• Eat a diet high in raw and fresh fruits and vegetables. Stick to low glycaemic fruits like citrus fruits (oranges, grapefruit, limes, lemons), deciduous fruits (apples, cherries, peaches, apricots, nec tarines, plums, pears, strawber ries), kiwifruit and grapes. They help to detox the body balance hormones and increase levels of potassium -which is essential for beautiful skin.

• Get enough exercise.

• Watch your vitamin intake. Pantothenic acid, vitamins B6 and C, zinc and magnesium support adrenal function and you should get enough of all of them.

• Eat at least five servings of fruit and vegetables per day. Wash them thor oughly to remove pesticides.

THE EFFECTS OF STRESS ON THE SKIN

Sallow Complexion (yellowish)
Stress sends the body into survival mode by directing most of the blood to the vital organs such as the heart, lungs and brain. This means less blood goes to the skin, which leaves you looking washed out.

Pimples
Cortisol causes the secretion of androgen, a sex hormone that increases oil production. Excess sebum means clogged pores, which then leads to breakouts.

Rough, Dry Skin
A restricted blood supply to the skin means the cells renew themselves less quickly, leading to dry, flaky skin.

Inflammation
When your body is stressed it often releases histamines, witch can cause irritation like itchiness, bumps, rashes and hives. A routine relaxation or meditation session can help reduce these hypersensitive reactions.

As little as two cups of coffee a day can dramatically increase levels of cortisol – the stres hormone – in your body.

We live in a world invaded by toxins, so it’s no wonder that our minds and bodies are on toxic overload. One way to combat the negative effects this has on our skin and bodies is to allow for a regular and gentle two-day detox. This gives the body a chance to rest and recharge. After a couple of days of cleansing, you’ll feel and lookbetter and can expect a clearer skin, better digestion, heightened senses and possibly even an improvement in illnesses and stiff joints. Always consult illnesses and stiff joints. Always consult diabetic, on prescription drugs or suffering from illness. Aim to eat fresh fruits and vegeta bles and loads of water, avoiding alcohol and caffeine. Eat as many fresh and washed fruits for breakfast as you like. Go fruits for breakfast as you like. Go like kiwis, grapes, mango, papaya, For an afternoon snack, nibble on a handful of sunflower and pumpkin seeds or eat a small carton of plain yoghurt. Sip on a cup of herbal or green tea.

Dinner can consist of a freshly steamed portion of bright vegetables such as succulent broccoli or cauliflower, leeks, aubergines, onion, marrow, peppers (capsicum) red cabbage, butternut or squash. Flavour with herbs.

Daily Detox
Cleansing from the inside is a very important component if you wish tostay healthy. To help eliminate toxin and fluid build-up, try working the following into your daily routine:

• Drink at least eight glasses of filtered or bottled mineral water a day. If you think it’s boring, add a squirt of lemon or lime -they both aid in detoxification.

• Swap your morning cup of coffee for green tea. It’s packed with antioxidants and is detoxifying.
Avoid alcohol. It contains acetaldehyde, which causes the skin to age faster and is also high in empty calories. Hard liquors like whisky, vodka and gin raise insulin levels. However, dry white and red wine do have some antioxidant qualities and may have a beneficial effect; nd may have a beneficial effect; glasses a day.

Increase your fruit and vegetable intake. Loaded with fibre and water, they will help to keep your bowels healthy. Papaya and pineapple are high in anti-inflammatories and enzymes and aid digestion.

Fresh fruit and vegetables are aninstant source of vitamins, fibre, enzymes and antioxidants.
To improve your health, eat fresh vegetables and fruits, as well as enough protein and carbonhydrates. A vitamin supplement, at least eight glasses of water day and regular exercise will keep skin glowing.

Home Spa
A spa session can be very soothing and revitalizing for the skin as well as for the mind and body. While not everyone can afford the time or money for regular professional pampering, it is fortunately very easy to do a little DIY beauty at home. Try to set aside an afternoon when you’re unlikely to be disturbed and give yourself three hours of ‘me’ time. Spend the time treating your face to a thorough cleanse and gentle exfoliation, nourishing mask and stimulating massage with your fingertips. Give your body the same attention with an invigorating exfoliating scrub followed by a lathering of rich body lotion. As hands and feet are so often neglected, it’s also a good time to give yourself a mini manicure and pedicure.

Facial Tips:
• To create your own ’steamer’, fill a large bowl with very hot water. Hold your head about 15 inches above the water and create a tent by draping a towel over your head and shoulders and the bowl. Stay like this for five to 10 minutes.

Steaming liquifies the impurities trapped in your pores and helps get rid of blackheads. Avoid this if you’re prone to redness or suffer from broken capillaries.

• Choose a mask according to your skin type. If your skin is dry, go for a rich, hydrating product. If it’s oily, a clay-based deep-cleansing mask will do the trick.

• You should aim for a salon facial every six weeks or a home regime of gentle exfoliation and a nourishing mask once a week.
Always make sure your therapist knows your skin’s history. If it’s your first time at a salon, you should be required to fill out a detailed client card.

• The massage action stimulates and oxygenates the skin; the reason skin glows after a facial.

• A facial is also great for reducing stress levels. It forces you to take some time out and relax

• A massage is therapeutic and very relaxing. There are various methods that greatly benefit mind and body.

ROSACEA
Rosacea is often referred to as ‘acne rosacea’ but is not the same as acne. Characterized by red and inflamed skin, particularly on the cheeks, nose, forehead and chin, it may begin as a tendency to blush or flush easily and progresses to persistent redness. Small blood vessels and tiny pimples may also occur. It’s most common in women between the ages of 30 and 50 and some cases have been associated with menopause. The exact cause is unknown, although it’s believed to be due to a disorder of the blood vessels, which become oversensitive to stimulation. Heat and sunlight may aggravate it as they stimulate the release of chemicals that encourage the blood vessels to enlarge. Rosacea is not caused by excessive alcohol, but can be aggravated by it as alcohol causes the blood vessels to dilate. Severe cases are sometimes accompanied by burning of the eyes. Treatment includes oral and topical antibiotics, good sun protection practices and avoiding extreme temperatures and spicy foods. Cortisone creams may reduce the redness of rosacea, however, they must only be used under the supervision of a dermatologist and for no longer than two weeks at a time as they can thin the skin. Red wine, oranges and caffeine may also aggravate rosacea, as do scrubbing or rubbing the face and irritating facial products. It can become worse without treatment.

ECZEMA
Eczema, also called dermatitis, describes a family of itchy, red skin conditions. Atopic eczema is an illness (usually an allergy) that runs in the family. It is the most common form of eczema and is characterized by chronic dryness, redness, chapping and itching. It usually appears first during childhood and most patients recover before the age of 25, although some live with it their entire lives. It generally runs in families who also suffer from other allergies such as hay fever and asthma. In teens and young adults, the spots usually break out where the elbow bends, on the backs of the knees, ankles, wrists, and on the face, neck and upper chest. It’s important not to scratch as this can lead to infection. Atopic eczema can be partly relieved by avoiding irritants like feathers and wool blankets; dogs, birds and cats; harsh detergents; and certain foods such as wheat, dairy and chocolate. Stress can also exacerbate the condition. Some over-the-counter products can relieve the itching, while topical steroid creams help soothe and calm the skin. It’s best to consult a dermatologist for the correct diagnosis and treatment.

Eczema generally causes dry and itchy patches of skin.

PSORIASIS
This chronic skin disease is caused by an overproduction of cells in the epidermis and ineffective desquamation
(shedding of these cells), the combination of which causes cells to accumulate and form red, scaly patches, especially around the elbows, knees, and scalp. Psoriasis tends to run in families and is not contagious. Mild or average cases can be treated with a prescription cream or lotion. If it’s severe, your dermatologist may prescribe medication or light therapy. Although psoriasis can be contained, it’s unlikely to be permanently cured.

If, unlike this woman, you suffer from atopic dermatitis, you should wash newly bought clothes before wearing them and keep your pets outdoors. Children should avoid fuzzy toys and blankets.

VITILIGO
This skin disease manifests as white patches on the surface of the skin. The patches are due to a loss of pigmet, but dermatologists are not entirely sure what causes this. Vitiligo usually appears on the face, lips, hands, arms, legs and genital areas, but can appear anywhere on the body. The amount of colour a person loses varies: people with a light-coloured skin usually see the difference between patches of vitiligo and tanned skin in summer. For people with darker skin, vitiligo is quite visible all year round.

The most common way to treat it is with light therapy and medicine. It is also possible to hide the marks by using special cosmetic camouflage products. Very often, such products are also water-resistant.

PIGMENTATION
Unbalanced pigmentation is very common and may be a result of years of sun-worshipping or skin trauma. As discussed previously, the skin has pigment-producing cells called melanocytes that determine skin tone. Dark skins have larger melanin granules, which means more in-built protection, and so are more resistant to sun damage. Fairer skins have less melanin and thus are more likely to develop brown patches from sun exposure. However, skin with more melanin tends to have more hyperpigmentation related to scarring. While pigmentation can largely be avoided by staying out of the sun, many women experience hyperpigmentation during pregnancy due to hormone activity, even if they avoid the sun. Chloasma or the ‘mask of pregnancy’ consists of brown patches that appear on the forehead, cheeks and above the lip. A variety of topical treatments is available that can lighten blemishes, and chemical skin peels, microdermabrasion and laser resurfacing will brighten the skin.

HORMONES AND SKIN
When a woman is pregnant, the additional hormones can cause many changes in the skin. While a beautiful rosy glow is associated with the first trimester and is a result of an abunperdant supply of oxygen, various sensitivities are likely to appear due to increased hormone activity. Conditions such as rashes, dryness, acne and allergies to your normal skincare products are common. It’s important to be extra conscientious with sun protection during pregnancy, as hormonal changes make the skin more susceptible to pigmentation damage. Vitamin supplements are also very important for the maintenance of your skin during this time: vitamin E and zinc have been shown to help reduce stretch marks, and vitamin C aids in collagen production. Always consult your doctor before taking any tablets during pregnancy and while breastfeeding.

Oral contraceptives have similar effects, leading to many of the same skin problems. Although different from person to person, many women on oral contraceptives are more sensitive to sunlight and can develop uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation if they don’t protect themselves adequately. Oral contraceptives can also lead to increased oil production or dehydration.

Pregnancy causes severe hormonal changes in a woman’s body that may also affect her skin.

Did you know?
Viruses that sit on the skin’s surface and penetrate the stratum corneum when it’s damaged cause warts . They can be passed from person and are most common on fingers and feet.