What most people don’t know is that their whole face doesn’t have to be “burned”. Selective skin peeling is done by most dermatologists and only on the problem areas on your face. A standard peel consists of your whole face being subjected to chemicals; but this is not needed for some patients. For those with slight pigmentation and acne problems; only the areas that need treatment are patted with chemicals.

The chemicals usually used are Phenol, AHAs (alphahydroxy acids) and TCA (trichloroacetic acid). Depending on the person’s need, the formula may be changed. Some dermatologists will use stronger solutions for extreme cases, while others prefer lighter ones especially for sensitive skin.

TCA Procedure:

1. Mainly used for blemishes, pigmentation from sun exposure and surface wrinkles.
2. Recovery period is about 7 days.
3. The effects of a TCA peel are not always that dramatic, and short lived, so patients may have to go in for more than 1 session.

Phenol Peel:

1. Provides a deep skin peel.
2. Used to treat coarse wrinkles, damaged or blotchy skin due to excessive exposure from the sun, as well as pre-cancerous growth.
3. Phenol treatment is not always advised as it will lighten some parts of your face. The bleaching effect may not be desired especially for those women who have darker skin coloring.

AHA Skin Peel:

1. Dermatologists use this chemical for acne, scarring and light skin pigmentation.
2. A very mild peel recommended for those who would like to recover faster, but it may take a few sessions to get desired result.
3. Recovery period doesn’t last for more than a few days.

These chemicals will produce a slight stinging sensation during and after the procedure. The patient’s face will redden and become blotchy. It’s not advisable that you wash your face or put on any kind of medication after the peel. Use sunblock to protect your skin, because you are more at risk from sun exposure since your skin has somewhat thinned out. An umbrella is also a good idea, as well as a hat to cover your face.

Patients have to remember that only certified professionals should be applying these chemicals. Do not endanger yourself by going to run of the mill clinics, because the solutions being used for chemical peels can be dangerous at some point; especially for your sensitive eyes.

Good skincare doesn’t have to be expensive, time consuming or daunting. Before bothering to spend a fortune on products that may not suit you, you need to know your skin type. If you’re unsure, go to a professional dermatologist, skincare therapist or beauty advisor at a cosmetics counter for a skin analysis. Your skin is a living organ and can change from season to season –or week to week -depending on your general health, lifestyle, diet and hormonal changes,. as well as external factors such as the weather. It is therefore important to have your skin profiled at least to have your skin profiled at least twice a year.

What are Free Radicals?
Free radicals are reactive molecules created naturally by the body, particularly when it is exposed to sunlight or under stress. Excessive exercise can also trigger abnormal free radical production due to the increased intake of oxygen. The smoke, chemicals and toxins that we encounter in everyday city life cause almost continual free radical production (the skin can generate free radicals in a millionth of a second if exposed to cigarette smoke).

Free radicals are unstable molecules that act as scavengers in the skin, damaging connective tissue, cell membranes and DNA, our basic genetic building blocks. On the skin, this chemical chaos results in a heightened skin cancer risk and premature aging. Young, healthy skin has sufficient enzymes and vitamins to neutralize these ‘terrorists’, but as we age, our natural defense mechanisms become depleted and the skin becomes less effective at defending itself from attack. Antioxidants are currently our best method of limiting free radical damage. They work by stopping the formation of free radicals and ‘mopping them up’ as they form.

How do free radicals form?

• Oxygen molecules have four pairs of electrons. Sun, smoking, stress, etc. ca n cause the loss of electrons. At this stage the molecule, desperate to ‘regain’ its lost electron, is defined as a free radical. So begins the raid on other molecules. Scavenging free radicals take an electron from other molecules, thus creating new free radicals that go on their own rampage.

• This chain reaction eventually causes the cell membrane to disintegrate, leaving the cell vulnerable to premature aging and disease.

• Antioxidants remove free radicals as they form by replacing the lost electrons and so creating normal oxygen molecules.

How often should I cleanse?
Cleansing twice a day is sufficient. If you are using mild and well-formulated products you won’t damage the skin. Some experts believe you should have at least two cleansers -a milder formula for the morning when there’s little or no oil build-up, and a deeper cleansing product for the end of the day lot to do with personal preference, but always take your skin type into account. Cream cleansers are rich and gentle and leave a light, moisturizing film on the skin, which is ideal for dry, sensitive and mature skins. The drier your skin, the richer the cleanser you’ll need. A lotion or gel cleanser is ideal for normal skin as it rinses off easily, while foaming cleansers are best used on greasy skin as they dissolve any excess oil on the skin. Avoid scrubbing acne-prone skin as it may irritate the lesions. Soap is a no-no on your face. Your skin is by nature slightly acidic (with a pH of about 5.5) and most soap leaves an alkaline residue that’s difficult to wash off and may leave skin feeling dry and tight. If you just can’t wean yourself off that lathering texture, some cosmetics houses make soap-free ‘facial bars’ that foam, but are gentler than regular soap. Generally, if you have very dry skin, it’s advisable to avoid soap bars altogether.

TONE
The jury is still out on toners. Many dermatologists believe that they don’t provide any special benefit other than to remove the final traces of make-up and cleanser and so make the skin feel clean and fresh. They cannot actually ‘close’ pores as some manufacturers claim they do -pores are the openings for the sebaceous glands and can’t be closed from the outside. However, modern formulations are becoming more and more sophisticated, with some offering soothing and anti-ageing benefits.

It is true that certain exfoliating or clarifying lotions can make your skin look more radiant by dissolving dead surface cells. Many brands also claim that toners help to restore the pH balance of the skin after cleansing. Astringents are strong toners with a high alcohol content that may irritate some sensitive and dry skins. Many toners that are designed for use on oily skins contain alcohol precisely because of its drying effect. However, they can also aggravate acne-prone skin as they may cause an increase in the skin’s oil production as well as increased sensitivity.

MOISTURIZE
In the past, moisturizers were designed simply to serve as barriers against the environment. Neither did they penetrate the skin, nor allow it to ‘breathe’, thus leading to congested, nutrient-starved skin. Modern moisturizers are designed to help the skin function properly and to improve water retention in the epidermis by ’sealing’ it -effectively maintaining a delicate balance between adding water to the surface and preventing evaporation. A vast choice of products is available and it is hard to decide which moisturizer is right for you. As a guideline, we should all be wearing a moisturizer that offers antioxidant benefits (to fight free radicals and prevent premature ageing). The majority of modern formulations also contain a myriad other ingredients to firm, smooth, mattify or boost radiance, for example. Ask yourself what concerns you most about your skin -is it your breakouts, pigmentation, fine lines, dryness, lack of radiance or wrinkles? -and choose accordingly. As a general rule, drier skins needs a rich, hydrating moisturizer, while combination and oily skins do better with a lightweight lotion. If your moisturizer does not contain a sunscreen, layer one over it.
Cleansing your skin not only improves the way you look, properly cleansed skin will be more receptive to active ingredients in your treatment products, so they will work better.

Serums and Boosters
These lightweight formulations have a high concentration of active ingredients and are ideal for special care. Applied under your moisturizer, they usually have anti-ageing or hydrating benefits. If your skin suffers from excessive dryness during winter, for example, a hydrating serum can be used just for those few months until the weather changes and your skin is back to normal.

Eye Cream
Because the skin around the eyes is the first to show signs of ageing, there is definitely a case for usi ng a special cream for this area. The skin around the eyes ages more quickly because it is thinner than that on the rest of the face, and so is less able to retain moisture. Also, the area is generally more sensitive, with fewer and smaller oil glands and, because the eyes are so expressive, the skin around them is made to move excessively. If you use your regular moisturizer around the eye area you could end up with puffy, irritated eyes, while rich lotions can block the glands. Never apply eye cream directly to the eyelid or underneath the eye. Using your ring finger, dot it on the orbital bone that circles the eye. The product will gradually work its way in through the repeated action of blinking.

The fragrances, emulsifiers and emollients that are used in various moisturizers and night creams may also cause sensitivity in this delicate area. Most eye products have multiple benefits, targeting the common problems associated with the skin around the eyes like fine lines, dark circles and puffiness.

Neck Cream
Because the skin on the neck has a small number of fat cells and low supplies of sebum, it is prone to dryness and sagging and, like your hands, reveals your age. A specially enriched neck cream, therefore, has its benefits, but you can also just extend your regular routine to the decolletage.

Do I really need a serum, night cream, eye gel, and neck cream?
In addition to moisturizers, there’s a whole host of potions out there that you’ve probably been told are essential to a good skincare routine. Many dermatologists scoff at them; many skincare experts swear by their added benefits. While there’s only so much your skin can absorb, how many extras you want to add to your basic routine is up to you. If in doubt, consult a professional.

Night Cream
According to our internal clocks, different body cells are more active at certain times of the day. Skin cells do their repair work most effectively at night. In fact, research shows that skin cell regeneration almost doubles at night, peaking between 23:00 and
4:00. Production of collagen (the skin’s natural support structure) is boosted, harmful free radicals are destroyed and cell damage is rectified. The latest night creams are designed to maximize the nighttime repair process and are generally more nourishing than a day cream.

The neck and decolletage are often exposed, so protect and treat them with the same care as you do your face by simply extending your skincare routine down to your chest.

Whether you want to smooth, purify, hydrate, brighten or soothe your skin, there’s a face mask for you. Masks should be used regularly for the best results, but do not overuse them.

MASKS
Applied to cleansed skin, a good mask can be an instant beauty fix. Masks are generally fairly concentrated and infuse skin with beneficial ingredients. There are various types of masks to choose from. As a guide, clay, mud or peel-off masks are best for deep cleansing and perfect for oily skin, while dry skin will benefit from a rich, hydrating treatment. Masks that claim to replenish, perfect or boost radiance are ideal to pep up a dull complexion. Masks and serums are also the perfect way to treat temporary skin conditions such as dehydration or some form of sensitivity, caused by environmental factors. They can be applied once or twice a week depending on the severity of your problem.

Exfoliate to Rejuvenate
Our largest organ of elimination, the skin sheds around five billion dead cells daily. One of the reasons young skin is so clear and radiant is because in its prime, young, healthy skin replaces itself naturally every 14 days. As age sets in this process slows until, at about age 40, the renewal cycle is increased to 30 days. If these dead skin cells sit on the surface of the skin, they clog the pores and make the complexion look dull. Removing them reveals clearer, brighter skin and restores suppleness and vigour by stimulating cell renewal.

Myth: Use a deep cleansig grainy scrub to open clogged pores and remove dead skin over a breakout.
Fact: Use a gentle nonabrasive exfoliant to smooth the skin’s surface and prevent further breakouts, unless you’re on Roaccutane or Retin-A ; these products already provide a peeling action.

Exfoliating too often or too harshly can compromise your skin’s protective waterproof layer. Be very careful of abrasive products; ideally thorough exfoliations should be done by a skincare therapist.

There are various ways to exfoliate:
• Mechanical exfoliation involves products like synthetic buffing beads, scrubs containing apricot kernels, a muslin face cloth or facial brush. If you like to use a scrub, look for a gentle one with fine granules that dissolve in water. Don’t overdo it -once a week is enough.

• Chemical exfoliants have ingredients like alpha and beta hydroxy acids, retinoic acid or enzymes (such as papain, found in papaya). These literally ‘unglue’ dead surface cells and do not require vigorous rubbing and rinsing.

Alpha hydroxy acids (fruit acids) are a group of natural chemicals found in fruit, wine, sugar cane and sour milk that exfoliate the skin’s surface layer and accelerate new cell production. If you use products that contain these ingredients on a daily basis, avoid combining them with abrasive scrubs. Always be very gentle as overexfoliation can cause sensitivity. By removing too many cells you could compromise the skin’s natural pro) tective barrier and reveal cells that have not been properly primed for the harsh environment.

Your entire body will benefit from a thorough exfoliation procedure. It is particularly useful before applying a self-tanning lotion, as the product is much less likely to leave unsightly streaks when applied to smooth skin. Many of the newer scrubs contain tiny encapsulated beads to ensure a gentle exfoliation process that does not abrade unnecessarily.

REGULAR EXERCISE
There is no denying the benefits of exercise -it’s the easiest way to perk up a lacklustre complexion. During exercise the circulation is boosted and oxygen-rich blood is delivered to every cell in your body allowing nutrients to be absorbed quicker. The short-term effect is a glowing complexion. Long-term, many experts believe that exercise improves the skin’s elasticity and encourages new cell growth. Remember, however, that moderation is the key to good health. Professional sportspeople sometimes have a gaunt look due to a low body fat concentration. That is not necessarily a good thing as you get older, as it may mean you lose some of that youthful plumpness. Training outdoors also potentially means more sun exposure. Raw fruit and vegetables are one of the best sources of antioxidant vitamins, vital for good skin.

BALANCED DIET
Although some dermatologists don’t believe that what you eat has any effect on the state of your skin, it is acknowledged that your skin reflects the general health of your body. Clear, radiant skin is dependant on the efficient functioning of your kidneys, intestines and liver -the organs responsible for detoxification and waste removal. Excess alcohol, drugs and fatty foods can put strain on these organs, resulting in a sluggish system and pasty, blotchy skin, while smoking and high caffeine intake can compromise your body’s defence system. Regular crash dieting also plays havoc with your body and can add as much as 10 years to your face, while nutrient deficiencies will affect your complexion. A lack of protein, for example, can manifest in a dull, dry complexion; a shortage of vitamin C may result in dullness and easy bruising; lack of vitamin A can cause dry skin and a disruption in cellular turnover; a deficiency in iron can produce a pale complexion; and a vitamin B deficiency may lead to breakouts, pallor and cracks at the corners of the mouth.

ENOUGH SLEEP
Skincare experts now believe that skin cells regenerate as the body rests, repairing damage done during the day and producing new cells in preparation for the next. Studies have also shown that sleep-deprived people have lower levels of a growth hormone that influences specific skin-growth factors like collagen and keratin production. As far as most of us are concerned, there’s just no denying what a lack of sleep does to your eyes and complexion!

DEEP BREATHING
Your skin absorbs a small amount of oxygen through the pores and so needs to ‘breathe’. Try not putting anything onto your face for at least a small part of each day and always cleanse well to avoid blocked pores. Breathing properly through your lungs will also benefit your skin: breathing in supplies your skin with oxygen and breathing out removes carbon dioxide and waste. Many of us breathe incorrectly by taking shallow breaths into the top of the chest.

Try inhaling and exhaling slowly through the nose. Keep the shoulders relaxed and draw each breath right down into your stomach, holding it there to a count of four, before exhaling slowly, emptying out your lungs completely. Breathing is a great stress reliever: it has been shown to lower the pulse rate and its easy, rhythmic quality is comforting.

Some cosmetic companies add natural ingredients in the form of fruit acids, vitamins, borage and hemp to skincare products. Some products use ingredients that mimic the skin’s natural functions, like hyaluronic acid, a moisturizer that occurs naturally in the skin. So what is best? Some experts believe that 60% of everything you put on your skin is absorbed by it. Your skin is a highly effective delivery system, so it makes sense that organic beauty products made without the use of artificial fertilizers, pesticides, chemicals or drugs -ensure the highest level of nourishment to the skin. But remember that you can still have an allergic reaction to a ‘natural’ product. Natural ingredients can trigger skin reactions in the same way that synthetic ingredients can. If you have sensitive skin, look for products that have full ingredient listings to enable you to identify potential aggressors.

Seaweed has detoxifying proper ties -it stimulates circulation and encourages the elimination of wastes and water.

A SKIN FOR ALL SEASONS
Winter can be torture to your skin, so it’s no surprise that many recurrent skin problems are at their worst at this time of year. Dryness can diminish the epidermis’ ability to provide protection, leading to seasonal eczema, hypersensitivity and rough skin. With a little care, however, you can keep your skin looking its best come rain or shine. During dry weather, the key is more moisture, more often. If you use an oil-free moisturizer, consider upgrading to one that contains small amounts of essential oils for a moisture boost, or switch from your summer moisturizer to a richer cream.

Depending on the humidity levels, you may also want to apply a weekly hydrating mask to help restore suppleness to the skin. Putting a humidifier in your home and office will also help prevent dehydration, which is especially important if you are constantly exposed to air-conditioners and heaters.

INGREDIENT WATCH Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or fruit acids, are derived from natural ingredients such as milk, olives, apples and grapes. They help speed up the exfoliation process by dissolving the glue that bonds the cells. When choosing an AHA, it’s important to consider the form and concentration. Lactic acid (made from fermented milk) and glycolic acid (made from sugar cane), for example, are particularly effective in treating dry skin and dry-skin diseases such as eczema and psoriasis, as well as decreasing wrinkles. Regarding the concentration: the higher it is, the more effective is the product. However, AHAs should be used with caution. They can cause irritation and do increase the skin’s sensitivity to the sun. If you use AHAs, you need to use a daily sunscreen with SPF15 or higher.

Antioxidants are part of the body’s natural defence system, derived from vitamins A, ( and E. They protect the skin by attaching themselves to free radicals and neutralizing them. Since your skin is your first line of defence against the outside world it makes sense to arm it with the most potent antioxidants available. Other good antioxidants include grape seed extract, black and green tea extract and Iycopene (extracted from tomatoes, red guava, watermelon and the skin of red grapes). Polyphenols or catechins, which are found in green tea, exhibit powerful antioxidant properties. In fact, they are 20 times stronger than vitamin E.

Did you know ?
Vitamin C applided topically to the skin protects it against free radicals for two to three days. And, since it does not wash off, it delivers extra long-lasting benefits.

Fruit or vegetable pulp can make a wonderful skin treatment. It contains stimulating enzymes that can make the skin look firmer and fresher.

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) work in much the same way as AHAs. The best known of the BHAs is salicylic acid, which is made from willow bark. BHAs appear to be less irritating than AHAs.

Coenzyme 010 occurs naturally in every skin cell and helps convert food into energy. Without (0-Q10 known as the ‘fuel of youth’ -the body’s cells are unable to produce energy. Stress, UV radiation and aging cause a drop in the natural levels of this coenzyme, while increased levels boost cell activity, regeneration and elasticity.

Enzymes like papain (from papaya) and bromelian (from pineapple) are botanically derived and naturally exfoliate and brighten the skin. Enzyme activators are also being designed to suppress the ‘bad’ enzymes -collagenase and elastase -that damage collagen and elastin.

Flavonoids belong to a group of organic plant molecules produced by plants to protect themselves from attack by diseases and insects as well as damage from intense UV light. Green tea is rich in flavonoid antioxidants. They’re also found in onions, apples and citrus fruits. They mop up free radicals, fight off viruses, calm inflammation protect against allergies.

Retinoids is a drive term for vitamin A. Powerful retinoids like retinoic acid are found in prescription-only products like Retin-A and Roaccutane and are used to treat sun damage and acne. Gentler derivatives like retinyl palmitate and retinol can be found in cosmetic creams.

Herb teas are excellent for health and beauty. Green tea, especially, is a superb source of antioxidants.

Relaxed breathing and elevated concentration levels will help you to lower your heart rate and blood pressure and increase your peace of mind.

The Stress Index
In chapter one we mentioned that stress can make skin behave badly. For some people it takes severe and prolonged stress to reach the breaking point, while for others it may only take smaller irritations like traffic jams, having to do a presentation, or lack there
of sleep to induce a physical or emotional outbreak. Short-term stress is beneficial in that it prepares the body for an emergency. However, in the long-term, your body, skin and health start to suffer. Unlike other hormones, them cortisol -the stress hormone –does not decrease with age. In a young, healthy body, cortisol levels increase in the morning and drop at night. If you are under prolonged stress, cortisol is continually secreted into the bloodstream. A younger person is more able to move from a stressed state to a relaxed one, whereas with age, this becomes more difficult. Problems arise when the body makes too much cortisol for too long. Effects include inflammation -a major con tributor to skin ageing, weakening of the immune system and increasing blood sugar levels.
Long-term stress also depresses DHEA, an important steroid hormone breakfor the skin. High cortisol and low DHEA levels are associated with rapid skin ageing. In order to protect the body from the effects of stress there emofore, you need to keep your cortisol levels in check. Doing the following can help:

• Eat a diet high in raw and fresh fruits and vegetables. Stick to low glycaemic fruits like citrus fruits (oranges, grapefruit, limes, lemons), deciduous fruits (apples, cherries, peaches, apricots, nec tarines, plums, pears, strawber ries), kiwifruit and grapes. They help to detox the body balance hormones and increase levels of potassium -which is essential for beautiful skin.

• Get enough exercise.

• Watch your vitamin intake. Pantothenic acid, vitamins B6 and C, zinc and magnesium support adrenal function and you should get enough of all of them.

• Eat at least five servings of fruit and vegetables per day. Wash them thor oughly to remove pesticides.

THE EFFECTS OF STRESS ON THE SKIN

Sallow Complexion (yellowish)
Stress sends the body into survival mode by directing most of the blood to the vital organs such as the heart, lungs and brain. This means less blood goes to the skin, which leaves you looking washed out.

Pimples
Cortisol causes the secretion of androgen, a sex hormone that increases oil production. Excess sebum means clogged pores, which then leads to breakouts.

Rough, Dry Skin
A restricted blood supply to the skin means the cells renew themselves less quickly, leading to dry, flaky skin.

Inflammation
When your body is stressed it often releases histamines, witch can cause irritation like itchiness, bumps, rashes and hives. A routine relaxation or meditation session can help reduce these hypersensitive reactions.

As little as two cups of coffee a day can dramatically increase levels of cortisol – the stres hormone – in your body.

Dinner can consist of a freshly steamed portion of bright vegetables such as succulent broccoli or cauliflower, leeks, aubergines, onion, marrow, peppers (capsicum) red cabbage, butternut or squash. Flavour with herbs.

Daily Detox
Cleansing from the inside is a very important component if you wish tostay healthy. To help eliminate toxin and fluid build-up, try working the following into your daily routine:

• Drink at least eight glasses of filtered or bottled mineral water a day. If you think it’s boring, add a squirt of lemon or lime -they both aid in detoxification.

• Swap your morning cup of coffee for green tea. It’s packed with antioxidants and is detoxifying.
Avoid alcohol. It contains acetaldehyde, which causes the skin to age faster and is also high in empty calories. Hard liquors like whisky, vodka and gin raise insulin levels. However, dry white and red wine do have some antioxidant qualities and may have a beneficial effect; nd may have a beneficial effect; glasses a day.

Increase your fruit and vegetable intake. Loaded with fibre and water, they will help to keep your bowels healthy. Papaya and pineapple are high in anti-inflammatories and enzymes and aid digestion.

Fresh fruit and vegetables are aninstant source of vitamins, fibre, enzymes and antioxidants.
To improve your health, eat fresh vegetables and fruits, as well as enough protein and carbonhydrates. A vitamin supplement, at least eight glasses of water day and regular exercise will keep skin glowing.

Home Spa
A spa session can be very soothing and revitalizing for the skin as well as for the mind and body. While not everyone can afford the time or money for regular professional pampering, it is fortunately very easy to do a little DIY beauty at home. Try to set aside an afternoon when you’re unlikely to be disturbed and give yourself three hours of ‘me’ time. Spend the time treating your face to a thorough cleanse and gentle exfoliation, nourishing mask and stimulating massage with your fingertips. Give your body the same attention with an invigorating exfoliating scrub followed by a lathering of rich body lotion. As hands and feet are so often neglected, it’s also a good time to give yourself a mini manicure and pedicure.

Facial Tips:
• To create your own ’steamer’, fill a large bowl with very hot water. Hold your head about 15 inches above the water and create a tent by draping a towel over your head and shoulders and the bowl. Stay like this for five to 10 minutes.

Steaming liquifies the impurities trapped in your pores and helps get rid of blackheads. Avoid this if you’re prone to redness or suffer from broken capillaries.

• Choose a mask according to your skin type. If your skin is dry, go for a rich, hydrating product. If it’s oily, a clay-based deep-cleansing mask will do the trick.

• You should aim for a salon facial every six weeks or a home regime of gentle exfoliation and a nourishing mask once a week.
Always make sure your therapist knows your skin’s history. If it’s your first time at a salon, you should be required to fill out a detailed client card.

• The massage action stimulates and oxygenates the skin; the reason skin glows after a facial.

• A facial is also great for reducing stress levels. It forces you to take some time out and relax

• A massage is therapeutic and very relaxing. There are various methods that greatly benefit mind and body.

ECZEMA
Eczema, also called dermatitis, describes a family of itchy, red skin conditions. Atopic eczema is an illness (usually an allergy) that runs in the family. It is the most common form of eczema and is characterized by chronic dryness, redness, chapping and itching. It usually appears first during childhood and most patients recover before the age of 25, although some live with it their entire lives. It generally runs in families who also suffer from other allergies such as hay fever and asthma. In teens and young adults, the spots usually break out where the elbow bends, on the backs of the knees, ankles, wrists, and on the face, neck and upper chest. It’s important not to scratch as this can lead to infection. Atopic eczema can be partly relieved by avoiding irritants like feathers and wool blankets; dogs, birds and cats; harsh detergents; and certain foods such as wheat, dairy and chocolate. Stress can also exacerbate the condition. Some over-the-counter products can relieve the itching, while topical steroid creams help soothe and calm the skin. It’s best to consult a dermatologist for the correct diagnosis and treatment.

Eczema generally causes dry and itchy patches of skin.

PSORIASIS
This chronic skin disease is caused by an overproduction of cells in the epidermis and ineffective desquamation
(shedding of these cells), the combination of which causes cells to accumulate and form red, scaly patches, especially around the elbows, knees, and scalp. Psoriasis tends to run in families and is not contagious. Mild or average cases can be treated with a prescription cream or lotion. If it’s severe, your dermatologist may prescribe medication or light therapy. Although psoriasis can be contained, it’s unlikely to be permanently cured.

If, unlike this woman, you suffer from atopic dermatitis, you should wash newly bought clothes before wearing them and keep your pets outdoors. Children should avoid fuzzy toys and blankets.

VITILIGO
This skin disease manifests as white patches on the surface of the skin. The patches are due to a loss of pigmet, but dermatologists are not entirely sure what causes this. Vitiligo usually appears on the face, lips, hands, arms, legs and genital areas, but can appear anywhere on the body. The amount of colour a person loses varies: people with a light-coloured skin usually see the difference between patches of vitiligo and tanned skin in summer. For people with darker skin, vitiligo is quite visible all year round.

The most common way to treat it is with light therapy and medicine. It is also possible to hide the marks by using special cosmetic camouflage products. Very often, such products are also water-resistant.

PIGMENTATION
Unbalanced pigmentation is very common and may be a result of years of sun-worshipping or skin trauma. As discussed previously, the skin has pigment-producing cells called melanocytes that determine skin tone. Dark skins have larger melanin granules, which means more in-built protection, and so are more resistant to sun damage. Fairer skins have less melanin and thus are more likely to develop brown patches from sun exposure. However, skin with more melanin tends to have more hyperpigmentation related to scarring. While pigmentation can largely be avoided by staying out of the sun, many women experience hyperpigmentation during pregnancy due to hormone activity, even if they avoid the sun. Chloasma or the ‘mask of pregnancy’ consists of brown patches that appear on the forehead, cheeks and above the lip. A variety of topical treatments is available that can lighten blemishes, and chemical skin peels, microdermabrasion and laser resurfacing will brighten the skin.

HORMONES AND SKIN
When a woman is pregnant, the additional hormones can cause many changes in the skin. While a beautiful rosy glow is associated with the first trimester and is a result of an abunperdant supply of oxygen, various sensitivities are likely to appear due to increased hormone activity. Conditions such as rashes, dryness, acne and allergies to your normal skincare products are common. It’s important to be extra conscientious with sun protection during pregnancy, as hormonal changes make the skin more susceptible to pigmentation damage. Vitamin supplements are also very important for the maintenance of your skin during this time: vitamin E and zinc have been shown to help reduce stretch marks, and vitamin C aids in collagen production. Always consult your doctor before taking any tablets during pregnancy and while breastfeeding.

Oral contraceptives have similar effects, leading to many of the same skin problems. Although different from person to person, many women on oral contraceptives are more sensitive to sunlight and can develop uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation if they don’t protect themselves adequately. Oral contraceptives can also lead to increased oil production or dehydration.

Pregnancy causes severe hormonal changes in a woman’s body that may also affect her skin.

Did you know?
Viruses that sit on the skin’s surface and penetrate the stratum corneum when it’s damaged cause warts . They can be passed from person and are most common on fingers and feet.

The Power of Protein
Protein is vital for good skin: it contains 25 amino acids -the building blocks of the body -and is essential to build good, strong cell walls. The best proteins come from animal sources -eggs, fish and game meat, and a little from dairy. It is a little more difficult for vegetarians to build beautiful skin, but it is possible. Proteins are also found in dried grains and pulses, like millet, wheat, soy, beans, peas and lentils.

Bright Colors
The brighter the colours of your fruits and vegetables, the greater their immune-boosting and antioxidant content. Phytochemicals –natural antioxidants that protect the body against degeneration -are found in bright fruits and vegetables. They support immunity, stabilize vitamins in skin tissues, protect from illness and premature ageing, act as free radical scavengers and help to smooth and firm the skin. The wider the variety of fresh phytonutrient plants you eat, the better.

Low Sugar
Eating high GI food like bananas, bread, sugar, crisps and cereal, on a regular basis can lead to skin degeneration. You’ll see it as loss of radiance, sagging, wrinkles, blotchiness, spots and thin skin. Lower GI foods will help protect your body from blood sugar disorders and insulin resistance syndrome.

By avoiding junk foods and sticking to a diet that is rich in power foods such as fresh salmon, raw fruit and vegetables, you will soon notice a difference in the appearance and feel of your skin. Apples contain minerals such as iron copper, calcium and magnesium, as well as natural sugars and vitamin C -very good for oily, blemished skin.

Raw Foods
Many nutrients, vitamins and amino acids are destroyed when vegetables are cooked and, in some, the biochemical structure of the nutrients can be altered by heat. The water content is also decreased through cooking. The water found in raw foods is of the highest quality and contains important trace elements, so it’s advisable to eat as many vegetables raw as possible.

Water
Water plays a crucial role in digesting your food and absorbing nutrients. If you don’t drink enough water, your skin will start to look dry and papery and feel tight. Each time you exhale, you are releasing metabolic waste -about two large glasses a day. Your kidneys and intestines eliminate another six or so glasses every 24 hours and about another two glasses are released through the pores in your skin. On a hot day, this can triple. You need three to four litres of water a day for optimal health. Don’t wait until you’re thirsty to drink: thirst is a sign that you’re already dehydrated.

Your skin is 70% water. If you don’t get in your eight glasses a day, your skin can become dry and flaky.

CAUSES OF PREMATURE AGING

Free Radicals
Get in enough antioxidants, don’t smoke and avoid other forms of pollution as far as possible.

Unstable Blood Sugar Levels
Reduce the amount of carbohydrates in your diet and get enough protein and good fats. Maintain a healthy weight and stop eating when you are 80% full. Eat small, regular meals.

Poor Detoxification; Sluggish Circulation:
Symptoms include a hung-over feeling (even withoutthe alcohol), chronic fatigue, bad breath, migraines, itching skin, skin allergies, premature photo ageing and pigmentation, joint pains and stiffness, irritable bowel syndrome and chemical sensitivity. Find time to detox, and generally include more healthy food and water in your diet. It’s a good idea to visit a health spa to kickstart your detox under supervision.

Chronic Inflammation
This is caused by deficiencies of vitamins 86, B12 and folate; a diet high in animal fats; deficiencies of qualbioflavonoids and antioxidants; food additives, as well as MSG and aspartamine. Increase or reduce these elements as appropriate for your diet. Impaired immune system function: symptoms include frequent colds, sinusitis, thrush, slow wound healing, recurring bacterial or viral infections.Correct nutrition is essential. Antioxidants, garlic and zinc can help strengthen the immune system.

Prolonged and Severe Stress

This results in excessive cortisol production, which depresses the immune system and can thus negatively affect other hormones. Find activities that relax your mind and body, and engage in these regularly.

Eat your way to great skin
If you want to look and feel good, supply your body with a few fresh energy foods and it will reward you with glowing good skin:

-freshly squeezed vegetable juice, especially celery, carrot, beetroot and wheat grass
-sprouts and seeds
-red grapes
-yogurt, fermented foods
-tomatoes, cruciferous vegetables
-garlic, turmeric and ginger
-sardines, salmon and fatty fish
-soy products, tofu
-kelp and seaweed
-olive oil
-blueberries, cherries
-barley grass

Supplements for a healthy skin
• Vitamins A, C and E, selenium and co-enzyme Q 10
• The B group of vitamins

Omega 3 essential fatty acids
Sulphur (MSMj methyl sulfonyl methane), a component of cystine that aids in healing and tissue repair. It’s necessary to produce collagen and keratin and is useful in treating acne, eczema and psoriasis. It’s found in fish, eggs, meat and some fruits and vegetables Alpha lipoic acid is a potent antioxidant found in small amounts in animal livers and kidneys, red meat, spinach and potatoes

Relaxation
Taking time to relax is one of the most important things you can do for your health. Less stress not only means fewer frown lines, but deeper health benefits as well, such as improved breathing and circulation and reduced muscle stress.

Meditation
If you battle to switch off and relax, you may want to try meditation. Research shows that regular meditation can help with complaints like headaches, asthma, PMS and hypertension. The idea behind meditation is to empty the mind of all thoughts by focusing on one particular thought. It may be difficult initially, but with practice, you’ll find that it becomes easier to slip into a state of calm. Start with five to 10 minutes and increase the time as you feel fit.

• Choose a quiet spot where you won’t be interrupted.

• Avoid meditating just before or immediately after a meal. A full or growling stomach is a sure form of distraction.

• Sit comfortably with your hands resting in your lap or lie down. Close your eyes.
Focus on relaxing one part of your body at a time, starting with your scalp and moving slowly all the way down to your toes. Feel the tension dissolve from each muscle and each limb, including your face, stomach and back.

• To prevent thoughts of your ‘To Do’ list or what happened that day at work, focus on one neutral or calming thought. It could be a scene (Le. the sky), a colour (Le. blue) or a phrase (i.e. ‘I am calm.’).

• Let your breathing fall into a natural rhythm. Allow the air to fill your lungs and breathe from the abdomen, not the chest. Inhale through your nose and exhale through your mouth.

• When you are finished, slowly open your eyes and stay quiet for a few more minutes.

Allow yourself regular ‘me’ time to relax and reflect.

The benefits of meditation

Cultivates a state of serenity

Regulates blood pressure

Activates parasympathetic nervous system, allows muscles to relax and helps regulate breathing

An effective tool for coping with stress and pressure

Improves concentration

Breathing
Breathing is linked to our emotions. When we’re tense, our breathing is shallow and hurried; when upset, it’s irregular; when we’re bored, it’s long and drawn out. By consciously bringing our breathing under control, we can reduce the effects of emotional turbulence. By refocusing your attention on your breathing, you’re effectively pushing the worries out of your mind, and controlled, deep breathing has been shown to aid digestion, oxygenate the brain, alleviate asthma and bronchitis, improve blood circulation and improve the functioning of the immune system.

For total relaxation avoid all other mental stimuli. Within even a couple of minutes you will feel much more clear-headed and rested.

If a distracting tought enters your mind whlie you are trying to meditate, acknowledge it and let it go. Think of is as a balloon floathing away into the distance.

Your body needs to be treated to a regular detox, but there’s no need to starve yourself. Brightly coloured fruits and vegetables can be tossed into a salad for a tasty, but healthy lunch.