2008 May | Ultimate Body Makeover

Archive for May, 2008

Common Skin Problems

ROSACEA
Rosacea is often referred to as ‘acne rosacea’ but is not the same as acne. Characterized by red and inflamed skin, particularly on the cheeks, nose, forehead and chin, it may begin as a tendency to blush or flush easily and progresses to persistent redness. Small blood vessels and tiny pimples may also occur. It’s most common in women between the ages of 30 and 50 and some cases have been associated with menopause. The exact cause is unknown, although it’s believed to be due to a disorder of the blood vessels, which become oversensitive to stimulation. Heat and sunlight may aggravate it as they stimulate the release of chemicals that encourage the blood vessels to enlarge. Rosacea is not caused by excessive alcohol, but can be aggravated by it as alcohol causes the blood vessels to dilate. Severe cases are sometimes accompanied by burning of the eyes. Treatment includes oral and topical antibiotics, good sun protection practices and avoiding extreme temperatures and spicy foods. Cortisone creams may reduce the redness of rosacea, however, they must only be used under the supervision of a dermatologist and for no longer than two weeks at a time as they can thin the skin. Red wine, oranges and caffeine may also aggravate rosacea, as do scrubbing or rubbing the face and irritating facial products. It can become worse without treatment.

ECZEMA
Eczema, also called dermatitis, describes a family of itchy, red skin conditions. Atopic eczema is an illness (usually an allergy) that runs in the family. It is the most common form of eczema and is characterized by chronic dryness, redness, chapping and itching. It usually appears first during childhood and most patients recover before the age of 25, although some live with it their entire lives. It generally runs in families who also suffer from other allergies such as hay fever and asthma. In teens and young adults, the spots usually break out where the elbow bends, on the backs of the knees, ankles, wrists, and on the face, neck and upper chest. It’s important not to scratch as this can lead to infection. Atopic eczema can be partly relieved by avoiding irritants like feathers and wool blankets; dogs, birds and cats; harsh detergents; and certain foods such as wheat, dairy and chocolate. Stress can also exacerbate the condition. Some over-the-counter products can relieve the itching, while topical steroid creams help soothe and calm the skin. It’s best to consult a dermatologist for the correct diagnosis and treatment.

Eczema generally causes dry and itchy patches of skin.

PSORIASIS
This chronic skin disease is caused by an overproduction of cells in the epidermis and ineffective desquamation
(shedding of these cells), the combination of which causes cells to accumulate and form red, scaly patches, especially around the elbows, knees, and scalp. Psoriasis tends to run in families and is not contagious. Mild or average cases can be treated with a prescription cream or lotion. If it’s severe, your dermatologist may prescribe medication or light therapy. Although psoriasis can be contained, it’s unlikely to be permanently cured.

If, unlike this woman, you suffer from atopic dermatitis, you should wash newly bought clothes before wearing them and keep your pets outdoors. Children should avoid fuzzy toys and blankets.

VITILIGO
This skin disease manifests as white patches on the surface of the skin. The patches are due to a loss of pigmet, but dermatologists are not entirely sure what causes this. Vitiligo usually appears on the face, lips, hands, arms, legs and genital areas, but can appear anywhere on the body. The amount of colour a person loses varies: people with a light-coloured skin usually see the difference between patches of vitiligo and tanned skin in summer. For people with darker skin, vitiligo is quite visible all year round.

The most common way to treat it is with light therapy and medicine. It is also possible to hide the marks by using special cosmetic camouflage products. Very often, such products are also water-resistant.

PIGMENTATION
Unbalanced pigmentation is very common and may be a result of years of sun-worshipping or skin trauma. As discussed previously, the skin has pigment-producing cells called melanocytes that determine skin tone. Dark skins have larger melanin granules, which means more in-built protection, and so are more resistant to sun damage. Fairer skins have less melanin and thus are more likely to develop brown patches from sun exposure. However, skin with more melanin tends to have more hyperpigmentation related to scarring. While pigmentation can largely be avoided by staying out of the sun, many women experience hyperpigmentation during pregnancy due to hormone activity, even if they avoid the sun. Chloasma or the ‘mask of pregnancy’ consists of brown patches that appear on the forehead, cheeks and above the lip. A variety of topical treatments is available that can lighten blemishes, and chemical skin peels, microdermabrasion and laser resurfacing will brighten the skin.

HORMONES AND SKIN
When a woman is pregnant, the additional hormones can cause many changes in the skin. While a beautiful rosy glow is associated with the first trimester and is a result of an abunperdant supply of oxygen, various sensitivities are likely to appear due to increased hormone activity. Conditions such as rashes, dryness, acne and allergies to your normal skincare products are common. It’s important to be extra conscientious with sun protection during pregnancy, as hormonal changes make the skin more susceptible to pigmentation damage. Vitamin supplements are also very important for the maintenance of your skin during this time: vitamin E and zinc have been shown to help reduce stretch marks, and vitamin C aids in collagen production. Always consult your doctor before taking any tablets during pregnancy and while breastfeeding.

Oral contraceptives have similar effects, leading to many of the same skin problems. Although different from person to person, many women on oral contraceptives are more sensitive to sunlight and can develop uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation if they don’t protect themselves adequately. Oral contraceptives can also lead to increased oil production or dehydration.

Pregnancy causes severe hormonal changes in a woman’s body that may also affect her skin.

Did you know?
Viruses that sit on the skin’s surface and penetrate the stratum corneum when it’s damaged cause warts . They can be passed from person and are most common on fingers and feet.

Breast enhancement?

aprylx asked:

I was wondering if breast enhancement pills work?

Nourishing From the Inside Out

Good Fats
Although low-fat diets generally lead to better health, our skin actually does need some fat. Eating fat is like ‘oiling’ your body: the right balance of fats will help maintain the skin’s surface barrier and protect against loss of moisture, keeping skin smooth, soft and supple. Fats also transport the fatsoluble vitamins A, D, Eand K around the body. But in order to achieve these functions, it’s important to eat the right fats. ‘Bad’ fats are the trans fatty acids found in convenience foods such as highly processed polyunsaturated corn, safflower and sunflower oils, and margarine. They promote heart disease, disrupt the hormonal balance and cause the cell walls to lose their capacity to maintain the moisture balance. The ‘good’ fats are the essential fatty acids -omega 3, 6 and 9. Omega 3 fats are found in fatty fish (salmon, mackerel, herring, tuna and sardines), walnuts, flax seeds and flaxseed oil. The omega 6 group is found in avocados, nuts and seeds. The omega 3 oils are vitally important to the skin and have great antiinflammatory properties. (Remember, inflammation is a major cause of skin ageing.) Omega 9 fats are found in extra virgin olive oil. The easiest wayto test if you’re getting enough EFAs is a simple skin test. Because the skin is the last organ the oil reaches, dry skin tells you that you’re not getting enough in. After a hot bath, towel yourself dry and don’t apply mouisturizer. If your skin feels dry, you need more Has. Ideally, you shouldn’t need a body lotion because your skin is being lubricated from the inside. EFAs are available in capsule form.

The Power of Protein
Protein is vital for good skin: it contains 25 amino acids -the building blocks of the body -and is essential to build good, strong cell walls. The best proteins come from animal sources -eggs, fish and game meat, and a little from dairy. It is a little more difficult for vegetarians to build beautiful skin, but it is possible. Proteins are also found in dried grains and pulses, like millet, wheat, soy, beans, peas and lentils.

Bright Colors
The brighter the colours of your fruits and vegetables, the greater their immune-boosting and antioxidant content. Phytochemicals –natural antioxidants that protect the body against degeneration -are found in bright fruits and vegetables. They support immunity, stabilize vitamins in skin tissues, protect from illness and premature ageing, act as free radical scavengers and help to smooth and firm the skin. The wider the variety of fresh phytonutrient plants you eat, the better.

Low Sugar
Eating high GI food like bananas, bread, sugar, crisps and cereal, on a regular basis can lead to skin degeneration. You’ll see it as loss of radiance, sagging, wrinkles, blotchiness, spots and thin skin. Lower GI foods will help protect your body from blood sugar disorders and insulin resistance syndrome.

By avoiding junk foods and sticking to a diet that is rich in power foods such as fresh salmon, raw fruit and vegetables, you will soon notice a difference in the appearance and feel of your skin. Apples contain minerals such as iron copper, calcium and magnesium, as well as natural sugars and vitamin C -very good for oily, blemished skin.

Raw Foods
Many nutrients, vitamins and amino acids are destroyed when vegetables are cooked and, in some, the biochemical structure of the nutrients can be altered by heat. The water content is also decreased through cooking. The water found in raw foods is of the highest quality and contains important trace elements, so it’s advisable to eat as many vegetables raw as possible.

Water
Water plays a crucial role in digesting your food and absorbing nutrients. If you don’t drink enough water, your skin will start to look dry and papery and feel tight. Each time you exhale, you are releasing metabolic waste -about two large glasses a day. Your kidneys and intestines eliminate another six or so glasses every 24 hours and about another two glasses are released through the pores in your skin. On a hot day, this can triple. You need three to four litres of water a day for optimal health. Don’t wait until you’re thirsty to drink: thirst is a sign that you’re already dehydrated.

Your skin is 70% water. If you don’t get in your eight glasses a day, your skin can become dry and flaky.

CAUSES OF PREMATURE AGING

Free Radicals
Get in enough antioxidants, don’t smoke and avoid other forms of pollution as far as possible.

Unstable Blood Sugar Levels
Reduce the amount of carbohydrates in your diet and get enough protein and good fats. Maintain a healthy weight and stop eating when you are 80% full. Eat small, regular meals.

Poor Detoxification; Sluggish Circulation:
Symptoms include a hung-over feeling (even withoutthe alcohol), chronic fatigue, bad breath, migraines, itching skin, skin allergies, premature photo ageing and pigmentation, joint pains and stiffness, irritable bowel syndrome and chemical sensitivity. Find time to detox, and generally include more healthy food and water in your diet. It’s a good idea to visit a health spa to kickstart your detox under supervision.

Chronic Inflammation
This is caused by deficiencies of vitamins 86, B12 and folate; a diet high in animal fats; deficiencies of qualbioflavonoids and antioxidants; food additives, as well as MSG and aspartamine. Increase or reduce these elements as appropriate for your diet. Impaired immune system function: symptoms include frequent colds, sinusitis, thrush, slow wound healing, recurring bacterial or viral infections.Correct nutrition is essential. Antioxidants, garlic and zinc can help strengthen the immune system.

Prolonged and Severe Stress

This results in excessive cortisol production, which depresses the immune system and can thus negatively affect other hormones. Find activities that relax your mind and body, and engage in these regularly.

Eat your way to great skin
If you want to look and feel good, supply your body with a few fresh energy foods and it will reward you with glowing good skin:

-freshly squeezed vegetable juice, especially celery, carrot, beetroot and wheat grass
-sprouts and seeds
-red grapes
-yogurt, fermented foods
-tomatoes, cruciferous vegetables
-garlic, turmeric and ginger
-sardines, salmon and fatty fish
-soy products, tofu
-kelp and seaweed
-olive oil
-blueberries, cherries
-barley grass

Supplements for a healthy skin
• Vitamins A, C and E, selenium and co-enzyme Q 10
• The B group of vitamins

Omega 3 essential fatty acids
Sulphur (MSMj methyl sulfonyl methane), a component of cystine that aids in healing and tissue repair. It’s necessary to produce collagen and keratin and is useful in treating acne, eczema and psoriasis. It’s found in fish, eggs, meat and some fruits and vegetables Alpha lipoic acid is a potent antioxidant found in small amounts in animal livers and kidneys, red meat, spinach and potatoes

Relaxation
Taking time to relax is one of the most important things you can do for your health. Less stress not only means fewer frown lines, but deeper health benefits as well, such as improved breathing and circulation and reduced muscle stress.

Meditation
If you battle to switch off and relax, you may want to try meditation. Research shows that regular meditation can help with complaints like headaches, asthma, PMS and hypertension. The idea behind meditation is to empty the mind of all thoughts by focusing on one particular thought. It may be difficult initially, but with practice, you’ll find that it becomes easier to slip into a state of calm. Start with five to 10 minutes and increase the time as you feel fit.

• Choose a quiet spot where you won’t be interrupted.

• Avoid meditating just before or immediately after a meal. A full or growling stomach is a sure form of distraction.

• Sit comfortably with your hands resting in your lap or lie down. Close your eyes.
Focus on relaxing one part of your body at a time, starting with your scalp and moving slowly all the way down to your toes. Feel the tension dissolve from each muscle and each limb, including your face, stomach and back.

• To prevent thoughts of your ‘To Do’ list or what happened that day at work, focus on one neutral or calming thought. It could be a scene (Le. the sky), a colour (Le. blue) or a phrase (i.e. ‘I am calm.’).

• Let your breathing fall into a natural rhythm. Allow the air to fill your lungs and breathe from the abdomen, not the chest. Inhale through your nose and exhale through your mouth.

• When you are finished, slowly open your eyes and stay quiet for a few more minutes.

Allow yourself regular ‘me’ time to relax and reflect.

The benefits of meditation

Cultivates a state of serenity

Regulates blood pressure

Activates parasympathetic nervous system, allows muscles to relax and helps regulate breathing

An effective tool for coping with stress and pressure

Improves concentration

Breathing
Breathing is linked to our emotions. When we’re tense, our breathing is shallow and hurried; when upset, it’s irregular; when we’re bored, it’s long and drawn out. By consciously bringing our breathing under control, we can reduce the effects of emotional turbulence. By refocusing your attention on your breathing, you’re effectively pushing the worries out of your mind, and controlled, deep breathing has been shown to aid digestion, oxygenate the brain, alleviate asthma and bronchitis, improve blood circulation and improve the functioning of the immune system.

For total relaxation avoid all other mental stimuli. Within even a couple of minutes you will feel much more clear-headed and rested.

If a distracting tought enters your mind whlie you are trying to meditate, acknowledge it and let it go. Think of is as a balloon floathing away into the distance.

Your body needs to be treated to a regular detox, but there’s no need to starve yourself. Brightly coloured fruits and vegetables can be tossed into a salad for a tasty, but healthy lunch.

Taking Care of Your Body

Your face is exposed and the very first thing people notice, so it generally receives a lot more attention than the rest of your body. And when the focus is shifted to the body, it’s usually about losing weight and trying to cover up flaws, rather than celebrating it. But to feel good in your skin, you need to shower as much attention on your body as you do on your face -protecting and caring for the skin, which reacts and changes just as facial skin does. It’s also a good idea to listen to your body. Aching muscles, tiredness and stiff joints may be an indication that your body is run down and needs attention. A healthy diet and a fitness regime are essential to keep in shape, but caring for your body is just as much about keeping the skin smooth and glowing with energy. Taking a brisk walk, treating yourself to a long bath or a massage, regular exfoliation, nourishing lotions, keeping an eye on posture, proper breathing and taking time to relax all have a direct impact on your body and its appearance. In this chapter we look at how to keep the body’s skin smooth, supple and healthy. Detoxiyfing, firming body wraps relieve water retention, making the skin appear smoother. The effect lasts about 8-12 hours.

EXFOLIATION

Dry skin is simply the accumula tion of dead skin cells. By remov ing them through exfoliation, skin looks smoother and more youth ful; it also helps prevent ingrown hairs. You can either use an exfoIiating scrub or a body brush, rubbing gently in a circular motion, towards the heart.

The skin on your body is generally drier than the skin on your face, so daily moisturizing is essential. When choosing a product, remember that the heavier the consistency, the more mois turizing it is. If you suffer from spots on your chest or back, look
For a body lotion that contains salicylic acid. Many lotions also contain AHAs, retinol, antioxidants and sunscreens, so you really can give your body the same attention as you do your face. Apply it immediately after bathing to seal in the moisture.

HAIR REMOVAL

Unwanted hair can. be removed in a variety of ways depending on your time and pain threshold! And, various lotions can be applied after your method of hair removal to inhibit regrowth.

DEPILATORIES are creams and lotions that contain chemicals to dissolve hair. They can irritate the skin whose outer layer is made of a keratin protein similar to that of hair. They are also very alkaline and so can disturb the skin’s natural pH balance. Always do a patch test first, and never leave on longer than instructed.

Why do ingrown hairs form? An ingrown hair is a hair that has grown sideways, forcing the tip of the hair into the follicle wall. It can also occur if the hair is too weak to push through the follicle. Regular exfoliation will help reduce the occurrence, while a cream containing benzoyl peroxide, salicylic or glycolic acid can be dabbed on to clear it up.

Shaving is quick and convenient in the bath or shower. First wash the area with warm water to avoid razor burn and soften the hairs. For minimal irritation, change the blades regularly and use the fewest possible number of strokes. Shaving creams, gels and lotions provide a layer of protection by increasing lubrication so the blade glides smoothly. Most of them also contain soothing and moisturizing ingredients. If you do suffer skin sensitivity, do a patch test before using one of these products. Despite popular belief, shaving does not make the hair grow back thicker – it’s merely the blunt edge as it grows out that makes it appear a little thicker.

• Waxing pulls the hair out from the root. Hairs grow back slower than with shaving and become finer with repeated use. For optimal results, hair needs to be quite long and the process can be painful. Like shaving, waxing can cause ingrown hairs, so exfoliate the area well.

• Electrolysis, when it is performed properly, can permanently remove unwanted hair. Electrical impulses are directed into hair follicles where they shock the hair’s root and inhibit growth. The procedure is timeconsuming and expensive because multiple treatments are required. It can also be quite painful, but an anaesthetic cream can be used to ease any discomfort. It’s important to have it done by a professional as it can leave brown marks or scars if done incorrectly.

• Laser hair removal temporarily inactivates the hair follicle. Once the follicle is destroyed, it usually stops producing hair. As with electrolysis, more than one treatment is required and it’s the most expensive procedure. A session leaves the area free of hair for four to six weeks. Eventually hair becomes finer or disappears altogether.

• Shaving, waxing or depilatories … how you remove unwanted hair depends on personal preference and your pain threshold.

Dealing With Cellulite

Medium stiff brushes and loofahs are great exfoliants and are also ideal for improving circulation and drainage. Be gentle and stop using them if your skin is irritated.

Cellulite is the dimpling of the fatty tissue under the skin and anyone can have it, no matter how over or underweight you are. Some experts believe it’s a result of genetic, circulatory and metabolic factors, and say there are ways to at least improve its appearance. Others say it’s purely an accumulation of fat and no amount of body brushing or expensive potions will disperse it. Another line of thinking is that it’s a build-up of fat and toxins like lymphatic fluids, acidic waste and water, due to bad habits such as a sedentary lifestyle, poor diet, alcohol and smoking. This school of thought advocates massage or some other form of stimulation to flush out the nasty stuff.

The most accepted explanation is that cellulite is a woman’s condition that’s related to oestrogen, the female hormone, which kicks in at puberty and creates curves by enlarging the fat cells, especially on the hips and thighs. The appearance of cellulite is caused by the way a woman’s fat cells are packaged underneath the skin: standing chambers of fat separated by fibrous membranes. As we age, the connective tissue between these chambers thickens, causing a mattress-like effect. As the skin thins and fat deposits increase, so the ‘mattress’ is more exposed. Although it’s difficult to get rid of cellulite completely, there are four types of treatments that have shown varying degrees of success.

• Creams and lotions are being produced in the thousands, with all sorts of claims to reduce and remove cellulite. The ingredients in these creams, such as caffeine, avocado oil, seaweed and yeast extracts, may work temporarily to some extent, but they would need to be used continually for a permanent effect. A number of women report an improvement in cellulite using over-the-counter creams, but at the same time, many do not. Most of them do help to improve the texture and tone of the surface of the skin.

• Mechanical massage like Endermologie, a suction massage treatment, has been shown to minimize cellulite. It works by pulling the skin upwards into a set of rollers under a low-pressure vacuum. This is thought to stretch the vertical connective tissue fibres, resulting in a smoother appearance of the skin.

• Manual massages such as lymphatic drainage can also help.

• Diet, it seems, does not have a direct impact on the formation of cellulite, although crash dieting is a sure way to aggravate cellulite. Every time you restrict calories your body stores fat and reduces muscle and the less muscle you have, the worse your cellulite will be. When you start eating again, it’s more likely your body will gain the weight back as inactive fat, rather than active muscle. A balanced diet and six small meals a daY is recommended for general health benefits. Eat the smallest meal in the evening when your metabolism and ability to burn calories is at its lowest. Minimize intake of fatty and refined foods, sugar, dairy, alcohol, caffeine and red meat.

Exercise can also play a role in reducing the appearance of cellulite as it improves your circulation, which in turn burns fat and helps strengthen the connective tissue structure under the skin. The effects of exercise, however, will vary from person to person.

Dry body brushing is one of the cheapest and most effective methods of stimulating circulation, which is essential for normal body functioning. If your circulation is impaired, insufficient oxygen and nutrients are delivered to the cells, toxins are not removed efficiently and lymph fluid is not drained correctly. All this encourages fat and toxin build-up. When body brushing, brush firmly towards the heart, but be careful if you have any problem skin conditions.

Why don’t men get cellulite?

There are a few reasons why women are the unlucky recipients of the orange peel effect. Firstly, the basis of cellulite is believed to be the female hormone, oestrogen. Secondly, fat is distributed differently in men and women. In women, it’s stored mainly in the buttocks and thighs –where cellulite is generally located -and in men in the belly. Thirdly, men and women’s fat sacs are packed differently in the skin. A woman’s fat cells are instanding chambers with the connective ‘ropes’ pointing up towards the hand, lie horizontally. The connective tissue is also horizontal and there fore doesn’t show on the surface.

Vein Removal

Spider veins are small, dilated blood vessels that appear red or blue under the skin. Until recently, most spider leg veins were treated with sclelight rotherapy, which involves injecting a solution directly into the vein, caus ing it to close up and disappear with in a few weeks. Though a successful treatment, side effects include skin ulceration, the formation of very fine blood vessels that appear as pink patches, brown staining of the skin, and, rarely, blood clots or allergies to the solution. Laser technology now allows dermatologists to zap these veins with good results. Several ses sions of 10 to 15 minutes each at one to two month intervals are needed in order for the damaged blood vessels to be cleared away by the body’s immune system. Varicose veins are much thicker than spider veins and have a purplish tinge. They usually occur on the legs and are caused by a malfunction of the vein’s valves, which can be stretched during pregnancy, or as a result of obesity, blood clots or even a genetic defect. If the valve can’t close normally, the blood flows backwomen wards and pools in the vein. There are various ways of treating varicose veins. A saline solution can be injected to restrict expansion of the vein, the vein can be closed at the valve or, in severe cases, the vein can be removed completely. New proce dures include a laser fibre that is inserted like a catheter directly into the damaged vein; the laser energy heats and seals the vein from within. balAnother treatment option uses radio frequency technology to destroy the vein by heating it from within.

Vitamin E is a perennial skincare favourite and many swear by its healing properties, particularly with regards to preventing and treating stretch marks.

A Little More About Acne

Most of us are born with perfect skin. While a lucky few manage to maintain a clear complexion over the years, most of the rest have experienced a few unwanted changes. For some it may be small irritations such as breakouts, dark patches after a pregnancy or enlarged pores. For others, it may be a more severe skin condition, like eczema or acne. Everyone experiences marks and blemishes on their skin at some point. Some are permanent, others tend to come and go. Most will be of no importance, while some may require a professional opinion, While you can never regain the skin you were born with, there are many things you can do to improve your lot and treat a problem. The key is getting to know and understand your skin, so that you are able to identify what needs to be done. Make a habit of checking your skin regularly. If you tend to problem skin, be aware of your problem skin, be aware of your may well be the underlying cause. Also realize and accept that your skin is constantly changing and that you may need to adapt your skincare routine accordingly.

Histamines are chemicals in your body’s tissues.When released, they cause an allergic reaction, which is your body’s way of trying to expel a perceived invader.

All about acne
Age is not a sure guarantee against pimples or acne. In fact, many people only experience acne for the first time in their adult years; recent studies show that 40-50% of adults between the ages of 20–40 are diagnosed with low-grade persistent acne.

The exact cause of acne cannot be pinpointed. A number of factors seem to have an effect, including genetics, hormones, physiology, stress and the use of certain cosmetics. This type of acne ranges from a few isolated spots to severe breakouts, which can leave unsightly scars. Acne results when the sebaceous (oil) glands secrete too much sebum into the hair follicle, which is lined with dead cells. The combination of excess sebum and dead cells clog up the pores, which are the pipelines for the natural flow of oil to the skin’s surface. As a result bacteria build up, the area becomes inflamed, and spots or pimples may appear. Acne most commonly occurs where the sebaceous glands are most active -on the face, neck, chest and back. A variety of blemishes result: Whiteheads form when oil and dead cells accumulate and block the pores from opening onto the surface of the skin.

• Blackheads are similar to whiteheads, except the blocked material protrudes above the skin, dilating the pore. The black colour is due to the oxidization process that occurs within the follicle. If left alone, blackheads will simply stay in the skin. Remove them by gently steaming the area and then ‘easing’ the plug out.

• Papules are inflammations under the skin. When the sebum build-up becomes too much, the follicle expands and eventually bursts, releasing the sebum and dead cell build-up onto the surface of the skin. White blood cells then attack this material, forming pus, and a pustule results.

• Cysts occur when inflammation spreads deep into the skin. To contain it, the cells automatically form a fibrous capsule around it. Cysts can continue to grow slowly under the skin and usually need to be surgically removed.

• Scars result when damaged skin tries to heal itself. Naturally, scars can be severely aggravated by picking or squeezing.

FACT OR FICTION?

Chocolate and fatty foods cause acne. There is no scientific evidence to indicate that diet plays a determining role. The ‘westernized’ diet is high in preservatives, colourants and processed foods and supports the most acne-prone populations. The Asian and Mediterranean populations, however, generally eat more good fatty acids and far less processed foods. Although acne is less common in these areas, the role of genetic factors is unclear.

Acne is due to poor hygiene. The blackheads we see are a result of an oxidization process that turn the sebum and dead cells black in colour. It is not dirt. In fact, overcleansing can aggravate acne.
Sunlight improves acne. The sun can seem to improve the compleXion, but it also suppresses the immune system. That is why acne often seems to get worse a few weeks after sun exposure. The sun also stimulates sebum secretion. It is more adVisable to wear an oilfree sunscreen.

Don’t be tempted to remove skin impurities such as blackheads by harsh squeezing or without prepearing your skin first.

WHAT CAUSES ACNE?

Hormones
Throughout your life, hormones will playa very important role in determining the ups and downs of your skin. Oestrogen is an important skin regulator, and an excess of male hormones can cause acne. Men and women both produce male hormones (androgen and testosterone) and female hormones (oestrogen and progesterone) -only the ratio of these hormones differ between the sexes. When the levels of androgen increase -during puberty, ovulation, menstruation and childbirth, for example -the skin produces more oil and acne can result.

Diet
There is not enough evidence to suggest that acne and diet are related, but some people find that certain foods make their acne worse. Common culprits include chocolate, caffeine, nuts, high-fat and spicy foods, citrus fruits, refined foods, dairy products, and foods with a high iodide content, such as artichokes, seaweed, spinach and shellfish. Certain medications can also cause a flare-up.

Stress
Stress triggers the adrenal glands to release the hormone cortisol, which increases the secretion of sebum.
Stress inducers include skimping on sleep, skipping meals and ingesting too much caffeine. All these factors trigger the adrenaline in your body to mobilize stored nutrients, which in turn slows down natural exfoliation processes. The remedy? Get enough sleep, follow a balanced diet, drink plenty of water, and cut down on caffeine and high-fat foods. In severe cases or if there is no change, consult a skincare professional. Although more common in teenagers than any other age group, acne can occur at any time in life. The causes are still not completely understood.

Did you know?

Skin that is irritated by a cleanser or moisturizer reacts by forming a protective layer by adhering more skin cells onto the surface.

TREATING ACNE-PRONE SKIN
The best way to treat acne is by preventing new spots while treating existing ones. It can often be treated effectively with nonprescription, over-the-counter products.

• A regular purifying and cleansing routine will help remove excess sebum on the skin’s surface, a breeding ground for bacteria. Try using a daily gentle antibacterial wash to help cleanse bacteria from the skin, combined with a beta hydroxy acid such as salicylic acid, which stimulates the skin’s natural exfoliation process. As dead cells become ‘unstuck’, there is less chance of clogged pores. Salicylic acid also helps to curb an oily shine.

• Even oily skin needs daily moisture. If your skin is very oily, choose a lightweight lotion to replace moisture without adding oil. Make sure the product you buy is oil-free or noncomedogenic, which means it won’t block pores. If you wear make-up, look out for foundations that ‘mattify’ or control oil, as they will help eliminate shine.

• Remember that fingers dipped into shared products increase the risk of contamination. If possible, opt for products that are specially sealed or have pump dispensers.

• Benzoyl peroxide is a fast-zapping, nonprescription ingredient that is particularly effective at speeding up the drying up and peeling of spots. It is available in varying strengths and should be introduced at low concentrations as it can be very drying and may cause allergies.

• If your acne doesn’t respond to nonprescription remedies (give it at least six weeks), it’s best to go for a medical diagnosis with a dermatologist who can prescribe a stronger formulation. Antibiotics can be taken orally (erythromycin and tetracycline are commonly used) or applied topically. The two other proven acne treatments are Retin-A and Roaccutane. Retin-A is an imitation of retinoic acid, the naturally occurring form of vitamin A found in the skin. Its main action is keratolytic, which means it acts as a peeling agent that loosens dead surface cells. Retin-A is a very powerful drug that only needs to be applied to the acne areas in very small doses. The problem is that retinoic acid can be irritating and drying, and causes increased sensitivity to the sun and any other products applied to the skin. Retinoid isotretinoin (Roaccutane) is a synthetic version of vitamin A that’s taken orally once or twice a day for four months. It’s extremely effective, but the side effects include dryness and increased skin sensitivity. Very strict birth control needs to be practiced while taking Roaccutane as it can cause major birth defects.

Medication is reserved for more persistant cases of acne and should always be taken under supervision.